Login with Facebook
Upper Devils Canyon

Select Area...
Lost Wall 
Pancake House 
Throne/Universe Wall, The 

Upper Devils Canyon  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,500'
Page Views: 25,575
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 4, 2006
Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
85° | 55°
81° | 49°
Partly Cloudy
82° | 52°
87° | 54°
84° | 52°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!


Upper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming.

The route tend to be of a mixed nature, both edges and pockets. Maybe a little heavier on the pockets and lots of little pockets to work those fingers. There is a pretty good range of routes here as well, with lots of moderate routes being put up over the last few years.

This area mostly faces to the east, and it is entirely possible to climb after (approx.) mid-morning here during the cooler (less hot?) days of the summer months.

Getting There 

After turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.6 miles from here

41 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Devils Canyon:
Cool Breeze   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 40'   Pancake House
Dr. Giggles   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Cracker Jack Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Projectiles   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Lost Wall
Too Stiff To Tip   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 55'   Pancake House
Lumberjack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne/Universe Wall
French Toast   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 65'   Pancake House
Ferocious Flo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Moon Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Queen Creek Freak   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lost Wall
Sunny-Side Up   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Pancake House
Tendon Teaser   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Earth Angel   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Frequent Flyer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Deviled Hands   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   Pancake House
Devils Advocate   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Pancake House
Electric Skeletons   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Throne/Universe Wall
Browse More Classics in Upper Devils Canyon

Featured Route For Upper Devils Canyon
Susan (left) climbing 'Queen Creek Freak' with Kar...

Queen Creek Freak 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Lost Wall
Fun crack that angles right, then back left over a flake, finally ending in a great roof. Although the roof looks tough from the ground, there are some great hands that make the rating accurate. The crack has seen a number of climbs so it's smoother than most in the Queen Creek area. This climb is well worth doing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Upper Devils Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!