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Upper Crack 
Variation to Boogaloo 
Virgin, The 
Wedunett 

Upper Crack 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: Tristan B on Sep 6, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Upper Crack 5.4 with some varations as dashed line...

Description 

This is the small short crack to the left of the 2 other cracks/flakes on the top half of the slab. Itís a finger/hand crack that is real easy to protect. Lead Boogaloo 5.8 or The Roof 5.9 to get up to the anchors, or another route like The Trough 5.5 to the top and then rap down and left to the anchors. From the anchors traverse left past Left Flake and then up the short crack. The crack dies out after about 20 feet and is filled with grass, from here you can follow the grassy crack up and run it out or traverse left 5 feet and take another flake up for 10 feet (protectable). From there head up and right to the anchors above Left Flake/Right Flake/Let it Bleed. Since this route starts traversing left and ends back right bring slings to reduce rope drag. To get down just rap back to the anchors and then rap down again to the ground. This crack is fun but itís really short, itíd be a good warm up if you were a 5.7 trad leader and wanted to get a lap in before trying the other cracks. Also you could use this to set up a TR for the other cracks. To me the crux was traversing left once you past Left Flake, you can put a cam in to protect a swing here. Itís a real easy fun move because you get some instant exposure. Then there is another crux maybe 5 feet up the crack and then itís easy to the top.


Location 

To the left of the 2 Flakes/Cracks on the upper half of the main slab.


Protection 

Light rack, bolted anchors at the top.



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