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Upper Cliff Band

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Boya from La Jolla Who Stepped on a Cholla, The S 
New Age Nightmare S 
Whining Dog TR 

Upper Cliff Band  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
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Description 

The upper cliff band is really an extension of the North Cliff Band of Cochiti Mesa. Its on the far left (north) end of Cochiti's North Cliffband. Routes here tend to be longer than most other routes on the North and South cliffbands.

This crag is a really great place to toprope, as it is particularly easy to setup TRs, and several routes can only be climbed on TR.

Getting There 

Two approaches are possible. The most common is to continue NW along the base of the Cochiti Mesa North Cliffband, past OMS and Pickpocket, along a newly trimmed trail that ascends up and switches back just below the cliff.

The other option is to rappel in. This is especially nice if you are toproping. Approach as for Cochiti Mesa, but instead of downclimbing to the cliff base, continue NW along the cliff top. When you are above Holy Wars, Montana Deviate, etc, head back into the woods (NE), and pickup a newly constructed trail marked with pink surveyors tape. Follow this trail to the top of the upper cliff band.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Cliff Band:
The Boya from La Jolla Who Stepped on a Cholla   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Cliff Band

Featured Route For Upper Cliff Band
TR-ing one of the many variations of Whining Dog. ...

Whining Dog 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Upper Cliff Band
This super-fun route climbs the softest stone at Cochiti, which is saying quite a lot. The route was bolted for leading at one time, but the bolts were removed, presumably by hand, when it was determined that the notion of bolts in this rock was just plain crazy. However, the route has recently been resurrected with a new bolted TR anchor. If you can lower yourself to the level of TR-ing, this is a must-do route, and an excellent warmup....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

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