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The Beach

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albinestone S 
Apes and Ballerinas T 
Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
Normandy S 
Perverse Traverse, The S 
Up'er Zipper T,S 

The Beach 


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Page Views: 6,107
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 19, 2012
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Perverse Traverse

Description 

The Beach, also known as the Upper Cheeks, stretches from the Perverse Traverse all the way over to the gully between the Cheeks and the Diamond. The white faces of the Cheeks house some of the steepest climbs in the area and is sunny in the morning and goes into the shade in the early afternoon.

Because of it's lofty position and the lack of thermal mass directly below it, The Beach stays cool in the summer heat when the lower walls are unbearable but does not retain cold pockets of air on clear winter days.

Between The Black Sea, The Beach, and the Lower Cheeks there is a small concentration of climbing that rivals in quality and surpasses in scenic beauty any of the more traveled classics of the Lower Wall.

For instance, the 4th pitch of the Zipper is as good as steep crack climbing gets in an astounding alpine position. Normandy overhangs 20' and stays completely dry even in a steady rain. As do the top rope-able routes directly below on the Lower Cheeks.


Getting There 

A common approach from the left side is via the Perverse Traverse.

As of March 2013, one can just clip into a thick cable and shuffle across to the Beach, completely protected. No rope is needed, and no perversity.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Beach:
Between the Cheeks   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Up'er Zipper   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Normandy   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Browse More Classics in The Beach

Featured Route For The Beach
Normandy

Normandy 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WA : Index : ... : The Beach
Prepare for battle. Multiple cruxes requiring a variety of skills. This route overhangs 20' feet over 90' and stays dry even in a steady rain once it has stopped seeping after the winter months.Fun climbing on clean rock with mind blowing exposure. Use a 70-m rope and be careful while lowering off. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of The Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Wilmans walkabout P1
Wilmans walkabout P1
Quadruple cracks on Lions, Tigers, and Bears.
Quadruple cracks on Lions, Tigers, and Bears.
The Incision
The Incision
Index Steep
Index Steep
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