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Upper Buttress

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Upper Buttress  

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Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Aug 20, 2010
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Nice place to explore if the Main Wall is busy. Has A few nice routes in the 5.11-5.12 range. Generally good rock quality, though I'm sure if you looked, you could find some stuff easily pulled off.

Getting There 

From the base of Holy Crap on the Main Wall head up and left on a climber's trail that has gotten much nicer in the past year or two. After about two minutes you'll be at the base of a nice wall that, chances are, you would have ignored if you looked at it from Tick main.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.4 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Upper Buttress:
Axis of Evil   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 40'   
Unusual Suspects   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Upper Buttress

Featured Route For Upper Buttress
Jordan Otto on Axis Of Evil 5.10+ Tick Rock Pacifi...

Axis of Evil 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Upper Buttress
The best route on the wall, follow long pulls on large through various weaknesses in roughly a straight line to a crux, thought provoking, top-out traverse. Going straight up from the last bolt looks possible, but much harder than 5.11. It is also way way way better to do the traverse and end up on a summit ramp that is not more than three feet wide. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Upper Buttress Add Comment
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By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Aug 20, 2010
All I know about the history of this place is that a dude named Jeff developed it and my first impression of him was him chain smoking cigarettes while hanging out 15 feet off the ground on a 5.12 in his approach shoes, beating a beehive with a 6 foot copper pole. Apparently, the bees had hijacked his route, and that was just not cool.
Hopefully that image makes climbing here just a little bit more entertaining.
Have fun, and beware of those damn bees!
By C Miller
Aug 21, 2010
Sounds like The Medusa.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 7, 2010
Those weren't cigs.