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Elevation: 7,495 ft
GPS: 33.76015, -116.6846
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

The Upper Bulge of Tahquitz, a large tooth-shaped section of rock starting midway up the rock, appears from afar as smooth and mostly featureless, and while not entirely true it's home to some of the more difficult, sustained and classic routes on Tahquitz. While routes on the Upper Bulge are shorter in nature, averaging 3 to 4 pitches in length, the exposed nature of the climbing gives an exposed feeling not found on many of the other routes at Tahquitz.

Stretching from the right edge of the Maiden Buttress to the Royal's Arches Area this section of Tahquitz is packed with quality routes including Super Pooper (5.10a), The Price of Fear (5.10c), The Vampire (5.11a), The Flakes (5.11c), and Stairway to Heaven (5.12a).

Getting There Suggest change

Routes on the Upper Bulge can be approached by any of several different methods:

  • For The Step, Le Toit, Le Toilette or Super Pooper start up The Trough and cut left via From Bad Traverse (5.6) to reach the left side of the Bulge and From Bad Traverse (FBT) Ledge.
  • For The Flakes, Stairway to Heaven, The Price of Fear and The Happy Hooker (or if avoiding the 1st pitch of the Vampire) start up The Trough and midway along the traverse head up a clean left-facing corner system (5.7) to reach Vampire Ledge which is located directly below the center of the Bulge.
  • For The Pharaoh, The Vampire, The Bat and any of the routes on the right side of the Bulge start up The Trough and then head straight up at the start of From Bad Traverse along the right side of a steep, smooth buttress with the curving crack of The Pharaoh a good landmark.
  • As an alternative climb one of the Lower Bulge Routes and modify the approach accordingly.

See the individual route descriptions for more detailed approach information.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Bulge Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 60
The Step
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 211
Super Pooper
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 116
The Price of Fear
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 231
The Vampire
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 51
The Flakes
Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 8
The Bat
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
The Crucifix
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Field of Dreams
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Le Toit
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 14
Stairway to Heaven
Trad 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
The Pharaoh
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Step
 60
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Super Pooper
 211
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
The Price of Fear
 116
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Vampire
 231
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
The Flakes
 51
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
The Bat
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 4 pitches
The Crucifix
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Field of Dreams
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Le Toit
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
Stairway to Heaven
 14
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad 4 pitches
The Pharaoh
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Upper Bulge Routes »

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