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Grand Wall Area
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Cruel Shoes T 
Free Grand, The T 
Grand Wall, The T 
Left Side, The T 
Roman Chimneys T 
Shadow, The T 
Stairway to Heaven S 
University Wall T 
Upper Black Dyke S 
Wall of Attrition T 
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Upper Black Dyke 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,329
Submitted By: Jeremy Frimer on Dec 31, 2010

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A four-pitch bolt-protected face climb up a basalt dyke. Crux is at the final bolt on the final pitch. Juggy climbing or moderate difficulty in high exposure at the top of the Grand Wall. If finishing the Grand Wall, the Upper Black Dyke is the easiest way to the top of the wall. The rock is not as solid as granite but good enough.


The climb begins on Bellygood Ledge, which can be reached by climbing The Grand Wall, Milk Road, Freeway, Europa, or any other route on the Grand Wall, Dihedrals, or Tantalus Wall. Alternatively, one can approach via the backside trail then follow the Bellygood trail (tricky to find the turn-off).

Descent: walk down the backside trail.


draws. optional single of cams (fingers to tight hands).

Photos of Upper Black Dyke Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Black Dyke follows the black feature from th...
Upper Black Dyke follows the black feature from th...
the start of pitch 1 off Bellygood
the start of pitch 1 off Bellygood
finishing pitch 3
finishing pitch 3
Juggy, exposed 5.8 climbing on pitch 2 (recleaned ...
Juggy, exposed 5.8 climbing on pitch 2 (recleaned ...
Sunshine and smiles at the top
Sunshine and smiles at the top

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