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P1: Well bolted pitch, very steep climb on crumbly and textured rock to a belay station before the roof. 5.9 Crux: Traverse across a crack near end of the pitch.
P2: This pitch has two options, you can face climb for a 5.9+ R bolted or mixed 5.9.
Face route: Dodge the roof by climbing R out of the belay station stay out of the crack and up the bulge, clipping mostly from reaching right.
Mixed, crack: Dodge the roof by climbing right out of the belay station. Stay in the crack or using the crack when needed. Bolt left and place pro in crack when needed.
P3: Great friction slab. Pull over the bulge from the second belay station and follow the bolts up. 5.8
At the third belay station, traverse right across the scree field ledge to the the back chimney. You will see a pair of anchor bolts on the right side before the chimney.
P4: Head up the chimney, clipping on the right face. Once the chimney ends, rotate 180 degrees to head out on the left face. Use the bolts and thin face crack to guide the route to a nice ledge. 5.10 b
P5: Climb a small dihedral onto the face traverse right after a mini-roof. Crimps and balance moves to the next good ledge. 5.10 c
P6: Climb the face and pull over a large bulge. Traverse right and up after the bulge, runout to the next bolt. Finish at a good, standing belay. 5.8/9 R
Hike up the scree field to a prominent corner that has a cave at the bottom (looks like a mountain lion den). From the corner, traverse right 50 yards to the base of the climb.
Rappel from top anchors, double rope rappels to the large scree ledge. Backtrack your route to the third belay station. SIngle rope rappel from third belay and double rope rappel from second belay will get you to the bottom.
No pro except second pitch, need two cams for the inch-wide crack.
Brad on the first pitch in the snow
Ol' Man Perkins drilling the top belay station
|By Jeff J|
Oct 30, 2010
This look like a sweet route. Iam going to have to try it out next time I make it up to Black leaf. This routes I don't think existed last time I was there...