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Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> Skykomish Valley
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> Upper Town Wall
> (g1) Upper Cheeks
> (c) The Beach
Up'er Zipper
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 24
votes
Routes in (c) The Beach
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A Wisdom that is Woe S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Albinestone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Apes and Ballerinas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barnacle, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Between the Cheeks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heaven's Rear-Entry Vehicle, Parked Out Back, Tow Away Zone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mermaid S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Merman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Normandy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Open Project: Undermedicated S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Perverse Traverse, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ripple S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Soulfinger T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Up'er Zipper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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When the Levee Breaks S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | FFA Thomas Ramier, Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, Bradley Lignoski |
| Page Views: | 5,859 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Thomas Ramier on May 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.
P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d.
P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow right-facing corner and then meets another overlap with some thin jams. By itself, this is 11a/b. Can be combined with P1 as one long pitch, it is probably 11b.
P3: Follow the same crack line. Climb a steep rib and stem in a short corner. This short pitch is about 10a. Ends at a luscious belay cove.
P4: Take the bolted face on the right to the summit. Has some interesting moves to an amazing lofty summit ledge at the top of the cheeks. about 10a.
Alternatively, if using a shorter rope, the descent can be broken into three rappels, stopping first at the top of pitch three.
If rappeling from the top of the second pitch: Two short raps straight down(station added 9/4/16)
P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d.
P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow right-facing corner and then meets another overlap with some thin jams. By itself, this is 11a/b. Can be combined with P1 as one long pitch, it is probably 11b.
P3: Follow the same crack line. Climb a steep rib and stem in a short corner. This short pitch is about 10a. Ends at a luscious belay cove.
P4: Take the bolted face on the right to the summit. Has some interesting moves to an amazing lofty summit ledge at the top of the cheeks. about 10a.
Decent
If rappeling from the summit: Two raps straight down(stations added 9/4/16). Note: The first rap is a rope stretcher. If using a 60m rope be very careful. Tie knots!Alternatively, if using a shorter rope, the descent can be broken into three rappels, stopping first at the top of pitch three.
If rappeling from the top of the second pitch: Two short raps straight down(station added 9/4/16)
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