Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.
P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d.
P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow right-facing corner and then meets another overlap with some thin jams. By itself, this is 11a/b. Can be combined with P1 as one long pitch, it is probably 11b.
P3: Follow the same crack line. Climb a steep rib and stem in a short corner. This short pitch is about 10a. Ends at a luscious belay cove.
P4: Take the bolted face on the right to the summit. Has some interesting moves to an amazing lofty summit ledge at the top of the cheeks. about 10a.
Start off the Beach about 25' left of Apes and Ballerinas (aka Stock Options).
Standard rack to 3" with extra finger and hand sizes.
May 29, 2013
For those with small hands:
Gear tip: If wide fist cracks (#4 BD) are very challenging for you, you might want to carry a #4. It is possible to place TCU's in the back of the wide sections, but if you like the security of pushing a cam when you are off-widthing, consider yourself warned.
If this route were on the lower wall it would be easily as popular as Sloe Children (Which is amazing, don't get me wrong).
Recently cleaned this route. Go do it! You won't be sorry.
(Be careful about the flake low and to the right near the very end of the route... I stood on it and it held, but be ginger... Now I just don't touch it. You can work around it using chicken heads and such)
|By Jon Nelson|
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Amazing route. Continuously interesting flake & knob climbing up to a short overlap at the end of P1, then a long straight crack for P2. Some leaders combine the two pitches.
Pitch 2 is mostly thin hand and fingers, but also has some hand jams and a few fist jams at the start. Pumpy crux at the bottom, more of a technical & power crux at the end. The last two pitches are short, but a blast as well.
|By Chris Kalman|
Jul 24, 2013
You can link the first two pitches, or endure the hanging belay at the chains on pitch 1. What may be better would be to climb past the chains on p1, pull the crux OW section, and belay at a good stance above.