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 ADVANCED
The Beach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albinestone S 
Apes and Ballerinas T 
Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
Normandy S 
Perverse Traverse, The S 
Up'er Zipper T,S 

Up'er Zipper 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA Thomas Ramier, Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, Bradley Lignoski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,431
Submitted By: Thomas Ramier on May 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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View from The Beach. Double rainbow no way.

Description 

Amazing pure splitter crack climbing after the first pitch of flakes and bolts. Generally follows the upper 3 pitches of the Zipper aid line.

P1: Some semi-strenuous laybacking at the start gives way to fun knobs and flakes, finishing up at a small overlap with a hanging belay (chained anchor). About 10c/d.

P2: A crack starts up from the overlap. The first few jams are wide fists, but then the crack becomes thinner, ranging between fingers and hands. Pumpy. The crack continues into a shallow right-facing corner and then meets another overlap with some thin jams. By itself, this is 11a/b. Can be combined with P1 as one long pitch, it is probably 11b.

P3: Follow the same crack line. Climb a steep rib and stem in a short corner. This short pitch is about 10a. Ends at a luscious belay cove.

P4: Take the bolted face on the right to the summit. Has some interesting moves to an amazing lofty summit ledge at the top of the cheeks. about 10a.

Location 

Start off the Beach about 25' left of Apes and Ballerinas (aka Stock Options).

Protection 

Standard rack to 3" with extra finger and hand sizes.



Photos of Up'er Zipper Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Nelson nearing the top of P2
Jon Nelson nearing the top of P2
Brad Lignoski doing the final crux on P2 (combined...
Brad Lignoski doing the final crux on P2 (combined...
Looking at the first pitch of the Upper Zipper (11...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the first pitch of the Upper Zipper (11...
Starting crux (10c/d) of the first pitch of the Up...
Starting crux (10c/d) of the first pitch of the Up...
cams
cams
Tom Ramier starting the 4th and last pitch of the ...
Tom Ramier starting the 4th and last pitch of the ...
Brad finishing P2 on Up'er Zipper (11b).
Brad finishing P2 on Up'er Zipper (11b).
Tom nearing the top of P1 of Up'er Zipper (11b).
Tom nearing the top of P1 of Up'er Zipper (11b).
P2
P2
Placing anchors below the summit pitch(P4)
Placing anchors below the summit pitch(P4)
Last move on P2 of Up'er Zipper (11b).
Last move on P2 of Up'er Zipper (11b).

Comments on Up'er Zipper Add Comment
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By braddean
May 29, 2013

For those with small hands:
Gear tip: If wide fist cracks (#4 BD) are very challenging for you, you might want to carry a #4. It is possible to place TCU's in the back of the wide sections, but if you like the security of pushing a cam when you are off-widthing, consider yourself warned.

If this route were on the lower wall it would be easily as popular as Sloe Children (Which is amazing, don't get me wrong).

Recently cleaned this route. Go do it! You won't be sorry.

(Be careful about the flake low and to the right near the very end of the route... I stood on it and it held, but be ginger... Now I just don't touch it. You can work around it using chicken heads and such)

-b
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Amazing route. Continuously interesting flake & knob climbing up to a short overlap at the end of P1, then a long straight crack for P2. Some leaders combine the two pitches.

Pitch 2 is mostly thin hand and fingers, but also has some hand jams and a few fist jams at the start. Pumpy crux at the bottom, more of a technical & power crux at the end. The last two pitches are short, but a blast as well.
By Chris Kalman
Jul 24, 2013

You can link the first two pitches, or endure the hanging belay at the chains on pitch 1. What may be better would be to climb past the chains on p1, pull the crux OW section, and belay at a good stance above.
By Laurel Fan
Jun 21, 2014

We climbed it last Wednesday. That was fun, thanks for the cleaning!

First two pitches were awesome (we found the first one to be a bit more than "semi" strenuous). Third was also fun but a bit dirty (there's a wire brush at the base, maybe that was a hint...). We passed on the fourth because it was wet.

Can rap the route with one 70m rope. Watch out for rope eating cracks when going from p2 anchor to p1 anchor.

Small offset cams are useful for the start of p2, especially if you are inclined to sew it up to avoid falling on your partner at the hanging belay. If you're skipping the belay maybe you don't need them because it'll be an air fall on to a big cam backed up by the chains...