Updraft 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Fritz Wiessner, Hans Kraus, 1944 |
| Submitted By: | "H" on Apr 7, 2006 |
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Updraft starts on right side of the corner. Rocks ...
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Updraft climbs the huge corner and chimney just left of CCK and 60' right and uphill from Moonlight.
The Updraft access trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.
At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft.
P1: Climb the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3, 110'.
P1 variation: Do the first pitch of CCK.
P2: Fun for the grade. Continue up the corner to the chimney. Climb INTO the chimney for about 30' and then squeeze your way out of the exit at the top. Tight squeeze depending on how big you are. Wear pants or tape your knees. If you have a pack on drop it between your legs. 5.5, 120'.
I only did this climb for the 2nd pitch. Definitely fun and interesting.
Protection Haven't done it in about 5 years, but I only ever climbed at the Gunks using Lowe TriCams (doubling up on pink, red and brown) and a few Metolius Quad Cams.
Updraft's 1st pitch top is in the corner below the...
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Middle of the first pitch of the Updraft corner. T...
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Upper pitch of Updraft, climb in corner to chimney...
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By coolaid
Sep 21, 2007
| Climbed this in a party of three and we all really enjoyed the 2nd pitch. Were suprised it was only a one-star climb in the books, we liked it more than many three-star climbs. Enjoy! The crux move is well protected, but tough. |
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.5
| Wasnt too impressed with this route. The first pitch was boring and the chimney although fun, was kind of short. |
By Jason Schrack
Oct 20, 2008
| The chimney was fun. Plus if you are the 2nd and you fart, the leader up top learns the true meaning of Updraft. |
By Ian Dibbs
Apr 19, 2012
| The first pitch is straight forward, but when you stem against the Erect Direction face, rocks are easily dislodged. Warn those below! The final 30 feet of the second pitch is vertical/slightly overhanging in parts,a 5.5 rating seems too low to me and might be a bad surprise to many 5.5 climbers. I may have missed holds but it seemed like a 5.7. The chimney is narrow -- bigger climbers barely fit, making the last 15 feet tough for them. You can rappel from the top beside the chimney and just make it to the GT ledge with a single 70m rope. |
By kenr
Jun 9, 2012
| First pitch has nice 5.1-5.2-5.3 moves, and felt well-protected, and with a nice rap tree near its top. (I haven't tried the second pitch). |
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