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h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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Steep Hikin' T 
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Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
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Traverse of the Clods T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Updraft 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Hans Kraus, 1944
Page Views: 2,312
Submitted By: "H" on Apr 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Upper pitch of Updraft, climb in corner to chimney...

Description 

Updraft climbs the huge corner and chimney just left of CCK and 60' right and uphill from Moonlight.

The Updraft access trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The access trail starts just past the boulder.

At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft.

P1: Climb the corner to the GT ledge. 5.3, 110'.

P1 variation: Do the first pitch of CCK.

P2: Fun for the grade. Continue up the corner to the chimney. Climb INTO the chimney for about 30' and then squeeze your way out of the exit at the top. Tight squeeze depending on how big you are. Wear pants or tape your knees. If you have a pack on drop it between your legs. 5.5, 120'.

I only did this climb for the 2nd pitch. Definitely fun and interesting.

Protection 

Haven't done it in about 5 years, but I only ever climbed at the Gunks using Lowe TriCams (doubling up on pink, red and brown) and a few Metolius Quad Cams.


Photos of Updraft Slideshow Add Photo
Updraft's 1st pitch top is in the corner below the GT ledge (first belay spot). The first pitch of CCK is partially visible on right. The classic finish of CCK is just visible at the top right.
Updraft's 1st pitch top is in the corner below the...
Updraft starts on right side of the corner. Rocks on left are sometimes loose, helmets please! This picture starts just above ground level.
Updraft starts on right side of the corner. Rocks ...
Middle of the first pitch of the Updraft corner. The challenging move is just below the small bush in the corner.
Middle of the first pitch of the Updraft corner. T...
Looking down from the chimney on P2
Looking down from the chimney on P2

Comments on Updraft Add Comment
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By coolaid
Sep 21, 2007

Climbed this in a party of three and we all really enjoyed the 2nd pitch. Were suprised it was only a one-star climb in the books, we liked it more than many three-star climbs. Enjoy! The crux move is well protected, but tough.
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Wasnt too impressed with this route. The first pitch was boring and the chimney although fun, was kind of short.
By Jason Schrack
Oct 20, 2008

The chimney was fun. Plus if you are the 2nd and you fart, the leader up top learns the true meaning of Updraft.
By Ian Dibbs
Apr 19, 2012

The first pitch is straight forward, but when you stem against the Erect Direction face, rocks are easily dislodged. Warn those below! The final 30 feet of the second pitch is vertical/slightly overhanging in parts,a 5.5 rating seems too low to me and might be a bad surprise to many 5.5 climbers. I may have missed holds but it seemed like a 5.7. The chimney is narrow -- bigger climbers barely fit, making the last 15 feet tough for them. You can rappel from the top beside the chimney and just make it to the GT ledge with a single 70m rope.
By kenr
Jun 9, 2012

First pitch has nice 5.1-5.2-5.3 moves, and felt well-protected, and with a nice rap tree near its top. (I haven't tried the second pitch).
By A.wilk
From: MA
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I found this climb to be fun bottom to top. The first pitch is super easy jug hauling with a couple interesting moves in the middle. The second pitch starts out easy and then gets pretty stiff for the 20' before the chimney. Once up in the chimney it was extremely fun but it gets pretty tight up towards the top. Lots of grunting and cursing can be expected if you are a bigger climber
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Awesome! Old school 5.7 climbing.