|b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
Definitely worth doing if all the 7's over in the popular part of the cliff are occupied.
If possible, engage in a dialog with passing climbers:
What route are you on?
Walk past Birdland to the chossy section of the Nears. You'll pass a small gully system, at Lonely Challenge, about 200' past Birdland. Another 50' or so takes you to a section of good rock. Elder Cleavage starts up a hard boulder problem to the right and Up Yours starts up a short lieback to the left.
P1: Climb up to the right-slanting layback crack. Climb this and work right to easier ground. Work up to a corner capped by a small overhang which is taken just a bit left (crux). Then right to easy ground and up to a tree with a rap sling. 5.7, 80'.
Standard Gunks rack
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
The crux looks harder than it is, and it is well-protected, too. A good route.
May 26, 2009
I first led this as a middling 5.7 leader, and was horrified! Later, realized I was right to be horrified - the first 40' is really quite poorly protected, and you're in & out of groundfall zone for a good bit. The second, pulling the first bulge, is also faced with a big swing (and potentially the ground) - they remove pro, *then* make the move. YMMV.
The upper corner is very nice and 5.7G. It would be worthwhile if you could skip right up to it.
|By Michael G|
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I agree, the first crux protects well for leader, but the second faces a long swing if they come off towards the end of the first crux, or during the traverse afterwards. In an effort to protect the second, I placed a high piece above the slab for the second, and then had to downclimb and move right to get back on route. Since I couldn't place pro until I got above that high piece, I ended up on some 5.4/5 R climbing. It seems that with double ropes you can still place this piece for the second, and also protect yourself for the 5.5 stuff.
The second crux is G and a ton of fun.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 17, 2009
This is not for the early 5.7 leader. Didn't like this climb very much.
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It takes gear well. You can place a nice nut mid way thru the traverse. It is not a conventional placement but is solid and should help reduce the swing if the second blows it.
|By Jake D.|
Sep 7, 2010
I really liked this route. I thought a move higher up in one of the corners was harder physically than the opening undercling.
Apr 15, 2012
I concur with the comments about protecting the lower traverse.
All in all, a really nice pitch I thought. The crux is the lower part. After pulling the initial moves I couldn't find decent pro before traversing right so just went for it.
Holds were good though.
From: Jersey City, NJ
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I protected the traverse with a microcam. seemed solid enough. a good fun climb. You can climb past the first set of slings on the pine tree to add another 30 feet of climbing. Stay to the left as the tempting cracks to the right all sound very hollow. From the higher ledge you can rap with a 60 meter rope
From: New York, NY
Nov 11, 2012
I really enjoyed this route, particularly the thoughtful second crux. A great climb for the grade. Also a comfortable and well shaded belay ledge at the second slung pine tree.
Traverse protected just fine with a small horizontal nut placement.