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 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aggro Monk S 
Black Uhuru S 
Blo Jo Jono S 
Boulder Hypocricy S 
Churning in the Cheese S 
Darrylect of Dialect, The S 
Form, The S 
Function, The S 
Houses of the Holy S 
I Like It Black S 
King Coral S 
La Primera Vez S 
Laser Gods S 
Lifus's Farm Tools, The S 
Makadon S 
Mono Jono S 
Nyorgai S 
Quiet Time S 
Stairway to Heaven S 
Swanktofy Yourself S 
Under the Hand S 
Under the Milky Way S 
Unknown S 
Up Your Booty Crack S 

Up Your Booty Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 310
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Beginning the fun upper third of UYBC.

Description 

UYBC is a nice route on excellent stone, but perhaps the best thing going for it is its recessed profile that provides (relatively) early shade. The route appears to be speckled in nice pockets, but most of these are too shallow to be useful, making the start a bit thrutchy. Fortunately the upper third of the route ascends beautiful featured stone reminiscent of Wild Iris.

Location 

On the far left end of the North End, the thrid bolted line left of the stunning "Nyorgai" arete.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2 BA.


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By slim
Administrator
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty fun route, but you would have to contrive the hell out of it to get it anwhere close to 10c. I would probably give it 5.8, but I try to limit myself to a 1 number grade downrating.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2010

Why not downgrade to what feels right? Why add inertia to an unmerited grade if that is indeed the case?
By slim
Administrator
Jun 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good question. I guess it makes me feel dirty.