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 ADVANCED
Penny Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Satan's slit T 
Clandestine Affair T 
Climb & Punishment T 
Crime Of The Century T 
Drain Evader T,TR 
Health Hazard T 
Kahoukers T 
Partners In Crime T 
Penny Lane T 
Popeye and the Raven S 
Power Windows T,S 
Quarryman T 
Red Rocket T 
Short People T 
Sunny Days in December T 
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 
Up, Up and Away T 
Werewolves of London T 
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 
Yorkshire Gripper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Up, Up and Away 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tami Knight, Peter Croft 1978
Page Views: 1,066
Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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In the crux on Up, Up, and Away.
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin up the wide and somewhat broken corner. Wander up increasingly steep terrain past a nice section of gentle finger crack to a decent stance. The fire up the final cruxy section of vertical finger crack. I found this to be suprisingly tough and slightly pumpy, and longer than it looked from the ground.


Location 

Up, Up and Away is left of Witch Doctor's Apprentice and Power Windows, just around the corner from Crime of the Century. The final finger crack is obvious from the trail.


Protection 

Standard rack to 2". The lower section of the climb eats nuts, saving finger-sized cams for the final section.



Photos of Up, Up and Away Slideshow Add Photo
Up, Up, and Away.
BETA PHOTO: Up, Up, and Away.
The busted ankle referenced in Pete's story of Up, Up & Away. Not my best moment climbing...
The busted ankle referenced in Pete's story of Up,...
Comments on Up, Up and Away Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Dec 18, 2008

My first exposure to this climb was making the 911 call after someone nuked their ankle falling near the top. It's a fun climb, but place the gear in the upper crack. It's pumpy, but probably better not to run it out if you don't have strength to stick a cam in.

I wish I had had my camera handy once we had the guy on the ground an waiting for the rescue group with the litter. His shoes were "X-Rays" from Five Ten. Having a picture of the swollen, bent ankle, with the word "X-Ray" on the tongue of his shoe would have been priceless.

By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
May 30, 2009

The only part of this climb that is 5.9 is the last vertical section. It can be done by layback or jams. I used a couple of #1 for that section.

By AnthonyM
Jul 27, 2009

I messed up my ankle last June.
Ended up hobbling down the trail to the car-People looked at me as if I were a ghost. Wish I could have gotten a picture of their faces.

The top crack section is a bit harder than it looks.
I put a piece about neck high. It was solid and held but enabled me to deck out. If I would have "Nut-Fished," and taken some time to really place a piece (higher) I probably would not have hit so hard.

Great Climb Though!

By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Feb 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

2 out of 3 comments mention injury from this route. It's worth mentioning that the upper section is not really that hard to protect, it accepts gear well it's just a bit pumpy is all. It's not 5.9 R, or even 5.9 PG-13.

By Jon Stein
From: North Vancouver, BC
Sep 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

From Penny Lane go left and up to this really appealing 5.9 crack. It just begs to be climbed. Bit of a tricky start makes way for easier climbing up until you get to the last short crack section just before the bolts. This was the only 5.9 section for me and certainly the crux. Very worthy of doing if you are in the area!

By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 30, 2011

The upper crack accepts both medium to large nuts and cams in the .4-.75 camalot range very well.

By AnthonyM
Jan 23, 2013

Yes Mark its easy to protect... That second deck/flat area is overlooked and is not forgiving. All of the pieces held when I fell... Another part of it was that I had just caught a glimpse of someone who fell and broke their neck. To be fair-I let my head get to me. Point is-this climb will not forgive (especially that top section). Be careful and have fun!