Up Until Sunrise 5.11b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Brad Saren, Brian Shelton, Jason Carmichael, Kit Nordeen, Mark Tjaden, August '04 |
| Submitted By: | Erik Tullberg on Jul 14, 2008 |
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Cruising the first tough section. Photo by Bill O...
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Description There are two nice headwalls with the crux being at the second. This has really thin face climbing, it forces you to string together your moves. Mostly feet until the crux and then be prepared for some arm exercise... very crimpy.
Location This is the second from the left end of Solar Slab, to the right of the fabulous Solar Flare with its big, arching layback... and to the left of Tava.
Protection 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. It is very well protected in all the right places.
Josh leading Up Until Sunrise.
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| Comments on Up Until Sunrise |
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By Stewart M. Green
Jul 15, 2008
| Have you actually climbed this one? The current rating is 12a. |
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 6, 2008
| Actually, yes, I have climbed it... don't agree with the 12a. In fact, I'd say 11a. There's a tough pull just before the end, but no wild moves (unless that ear shaped foothold has broken off since last I climbed it 2 months ago). Besides, I can't climb 12a :) |
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c
| Bolt number 4 has the worst placement. It is right in the way of where you need to go. Cool route though. I couldn't lead climb any further anyhow. Perhaps with my new shoes? |
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