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 ADVANCED
Solar Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Eclipse This S 
El Sol S 
Frigga TR 
Helios S 
Icarus S 
Isis S 
Solar Flare T,S 
Tava S 
Up Until Sunrise S 

Up Until Sunrise 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brad Saren, Brian Shelton, Jason Carmichael, Kit Nordeen, Mark Tjaden, August '04
Page Views: 1,395
Submitted By: Erik Tullberg on Jul 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Cruising the first tough section. Photo by Bill O...

Description 

There are two nice headwalls with the crux being at the second. This has really thin face climbing, it forces you to string together your moves. Mostly feet until the crux and then be prepared for some arm exercise... very crimpy.


Location 

This is the second from the left end of Solar Slab, to the right of the fabulous Solar Flare with its big, arching layback... and to the left of Tava.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. It is very well protected in all the right places.



Photos of Up Until Sunrise Slideshow Add Photo
Josh leading Up Until Sunrise.
Josh leading Up Until Sunrise.
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By Stewart M. Green
Jul 15, 2008

Have you actually climbed this one? The current rating is 12a.

By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 6, 2008

Actually, yes, I have climbed it... don't agree with the 12a. In fact, I'd say 11a. There's a tough pull just before the end, but no wild moves (unless that ear shaped foothold has broken off since last I climbed it 2 months ago). Besides, I can't climb 12a :)

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Bolt number 4 has the worst placement. It is right in the way of where you need to go. Cool route though. I couldn't lead climb any further anyhow. Perhaps with my new shoes?