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 ADVANCED
Holdout
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
19th Nervous Breakdown T 
Arch Stanton T,S 
Beefeater T 
Bushwhack T 
Currey's Diagonal T 
Eleven Cent Moon T,S,TR 
Equilibrium T 
Existential Dilemma T 
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 
Morning Sickness T 
Narrow and Ugly T 
Oslund's Delight T 
Pipeline S 
Rainbow in the Dark T 
Reading Raymond Chandler T,TR 
Silver Surfer T 
Up the Down Chimney T 
Veggie Eater S 
Very Narrow and Treesy T 
Wide and Ugly T 
William T 
Wright of Thick and Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Up the Down Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 206
Submitted By: James on Jun 30, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The start of Up the Down chimney.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Basically climb a chimney that moves horizontally and vertically. The crux comes immediately and if you have big gear protects very well. There is a nice belay spot about halfway (Mike's Breakdown exit) if you would like to watch your follower grovel through the start. From the optional belay spot, you can continue up the inside or walk across the outside to the anchor.

Location 

Come in from the right. Just as you get up to the stating ledge for 19th Nervous Breakdown you will see a sloping chimney. Park yourself here you have arrived.

There was only one hanger at the anchor (above Bushwhack) when we climbed it. We backed this up with a slung chockstone and rapped to the starting ledge.

Protection 

Big, I even broke out the #4 & #5 BigBros.


Photos of Up the Down Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Looking straight into the belly of this beast.
BETA PHOTO: Looking straight into the belly of this beast.

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