Up Stream  5.10c

523 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon Submitted By:  SCherry on Feb 3, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>> Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates! ACSD Access and Nesting Advisories Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Up Stream 

Super classic 2 pitch 5.10 on the steeper "Right Wall". The second pitch is a great warm-up on bomber brown rock with amazing jugs and crack features. With long runners and good rope management you can lead this in one long pitch. You can also use this pitch to approach some of the upper pitches that top out (last pitch of "Fly Away Roof" "Soy Chango" or "Crazy Horse").

Pitch 1: 10a. Start at the farthest right set of 4 anchors at the base of the "Right Wall". From here take the left line of bolts-the same as the first pitch of "Fly Away Roof" (the right line is the first pitch of "Lucky Stars"). Negotiate some choss and gain a clean slab at bolt 2. You are avoiding a grassy, plant filled corner to your left. Climb up the steepening slab below a small roof feature on the left. Climb around the right side of the roof and before you enter a right facing corner head back left to a belay on a small ledge formed at the top the roof feature. 50 feet.

Pitch 2: 10c. The money pitch. Climb left along the ledge to a right facing corner with a crack. Layback up and clip the first bolt below a bulge of brown rock. Climb up and over the bulge to a rest ledge (there is an optional set of anchors on the left side of the ledge). From here climb up and hand traverse right along a blocky jug feature to gain a crack below a left facing corner. Layback and jam up the crack as the wall steepens to the base of an overhanging panel. Cop a rest and climb through the overhang on jugs just to the right of an obvious thin crack on your left. Gain the top of the overhang and move left past a large detached block (using it for handholds). Just to the left of the block are the anchors (with quick links) on a perfect ledge of orange rock. 100 feet.

Location 

Scramble up the series of grassy ledges (approach from the right side of the wall) to locate the rightmost set of 4 anchor bolts at the base of the steep "Right Wall". These are located just to the left of the obvious "White Arete" feature. The climb takes the left line of bolts from here (the right line is the route "Lucky Stars").

Protection 

15 quick draws. Rappell from any of the anchors, or continue up an alternate pitch to the summit.