|580 page views|
Super classic 2 pitch 5.10 on the steeper "Right Wall". The second pitch is a great warm-up on bomber brown rock with amazing jugs and crack features. With long runners and good rope management you can lead this in one long pitch. You can also use this pitch to approach some of the upper pitches that top out (last pitch of "Fly Away Roof" "Soy Chango" or "Crazy Horse").
Pitch 1: 10a. Start at the farthest right set of 4 anchors at the base of the "Right Wall". From here take the left line of bolts-the same as the first pitch of "Fly Away Roof" (the right line is the first pitch of "Lucky Stars"). Negotiate some choss and gain a clean slab at bolt 2. You are avoiding a grassy, plant filled corner to your left. Climb up the steepening slab below a small roof feature on the left. Climb around the right side of the roof and before you enter a right facing corner head back left to a belay on a small ledge formed at the top the roof feature. 50 feet.
Pitch 2: 10c. The money pitch. Climb left along the ledge to a right facing corner with a crack. Layback up and clip the first bolt below a bulge of brown rock. Climb up and over the bulge to a rest ledge (there is an optional set of anchors on the left side of the ledge). From here climb up and hand traverse right along a blocky jug feature to gain a crack below a left facing corner. Layback and jam up the crack as the wall steepens to the base of an overhanging panel. Cop a rest and climb through the overhang on jugs just to the right of an obvious thin crack on your left. Gain the top of the overhang and move left past a large detached block (using it for handholds). Just to the left of the block are the anchors (with quick links) on a perfect ledge of orange rock. 100 feet.
Scramble up the series of grassy ledges (approach from the right side of the wall) to locate the rightmost set of 4 anchor bolts at the base of the steep "Right Wall". These are located just to the left of the obvious "White Arete" feature. The climb takes the left line of bolts from here (the right line is the route "Lucky Stars").
15 quick draws. Rappell from any of the anchors, or continue up an alternate pitch to the summit.