All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > San Francisco P… > Peaks Crag > Peaks Crag > S End

Up in Smoke

Name: Up in Smoke
Rating: 3.5

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in South End

L › R R › L A › Z

	50/50 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Amateur Hour S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Amazon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Be the Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Black Bulge, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Burning Point S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Chummers Class S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Control Burn S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Coyote Ugly S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Creature, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cryptobiotic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dacite Delight S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Electric Shitstorm T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Final Countdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Flowrider S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Furiosa Project, The S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Giggle Drops S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Giggle Smoke S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Imperial Stout / Unnamed S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Latebloomer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Old Walley T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	PEZ - Photo Enforcement Zone S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Steeper by the Dozen T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Sunny Side T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Up in Smoke S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Whistle Stop, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	JJ Schlick 2009
Page Views:	5,493 total · 51/month
Shared By:	JJ Schlick on May 24, 2015
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Closure Details

Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods which typically start April 1st and last through early August. All routes south of Shaman School (Climber's left) will be closed to climbing. Please refer to USFS signage at the crag for the most current closure information. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of full areas, and we ask that climbers respect this privilege by adhering to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Description

Up in Smoke is the rather eye catching, left facing dihedral to the right of Giggle Drops which gets it's name from the stunning white anti water streaks on the wall, which resemble stylized plumes of smoke rising into the air. Powerful and technical climbing that could torch you quite easily under certain conditions.

Start below and just to the right of the upper dihedral on some less than enjoyable stone, to the right of a thick black streak. Thankfully, only a few moves delivers you into good rock and the steeper climbing. The start has actually cleaned up a bit and doesn’t feel as scrappy as it used to.

The first crux comes in the dihedral, and there are two ways of doing it. The original direct route stays in the dihedral, possibly using a hold just around the right arête if you’re tall, while the path of least resistance strays well left onto Giggle Drops. Both ways of doing it are fun, but only one is an independent line. The dihedral eventually spills out into a welcomed shake before the next crux. A little toe tapping technical climbing and a few challenging pockets will lead you to some flat mini jugs which you’ll wish were a little bigger. One last boulder problem guards the angle break. A great shake at the break let's you eye up the final thought provoking and exposed climbing to the hanging anchors. Plants may be hiding holds