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> Unnamed Slabs
Unwanted
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British X
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | 2014 |
Page Views: | 565 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Oct 10, 2014 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
As with all the routes on this slab, the crux comes at the headwall. Unlike the others, it turns out to be rather easy - which makes this route's crux not that much more difficult than its runout "easier" parts.
Climb up the tilted block of slab, step right and go up to a short right-facing corner, capped by a triangular block. Climb up on top of the block, step left onto the dirty slab for a moment, then move up and slightly right to reach the headwall at the bottom of a right-facing corner (this is smack between the short vertical crack crux of Unclaimed and the crack crux of Unnamed ). Probably should belay here. One quick hop step achieves this corner. Climb it to its end, step right to a left-facing flake for pro, climb to its end, then cross Unclaimed, wandering right to open slab, and go up to the constriction at a spruce tree, climbing a final short, easy slab to its top.
Climb up the tilted block of slab, step right and go up to a short right-facing corner, capped by a triangular block. Climb up on top of the block, step left onto the dirty slab for a moment, then move up and slightly right to reach the headwall at the bottom of a right-facing corner (this is smack between the short vertical crack crux of Unclaimed and the crack crux of Unnamed ). Probably should belay here. One quick hop step achieves this corner. Climb it to its end, step right to a left-facing flake for pro, climb to its end, then cross Unclaimed, wandering right to open slab, and go up to the constriction at a spruce tree, climbing a final short, easy slab to its top.
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