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Upper Buttress
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Axis of Evil S 
Unusual Suspects S 

Unusual Suspects 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall and Jeff Constine
Page Views: 745
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Aug 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

As I recall, the crux comes at a little above midway, where you have to negotiate a slight bulge with really crappy holds. Of course, I haven't been on this in a few years, so maybe those holds aren't as bad as I'm currently imagining. Regardless, this was really fun to tinker on, but I don't remember this being as good as its 5.11 neighbor to the left.


Location 

Starts about 8 feet right of Axis of Evil on the second highest ledge.


Protection 

Several bolts to chains. Shared anchor with Axis of Evil.



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By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I'd call the crux higher up than the bulge, but YMMV. There's a strenuous sidepull/highstep on a sharp pocket-like gash. I broke an edge off it so it's not as positive as it used to be - oops. Didn't alter the move any, just doesn't feel quite as secure.

Regardless, fun route that stays consistent throughout. One of the better routes at Tick.

By Snupe
From: SoCak
Sep 8, 2010

I'd say that bulge is the onsight crux. Once you have the beta for the lower bulge, the upper section is harder. And you're an asshole for breaking the undercling.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Agreed on the onsight crux. Disagree on the quasi-undercling breaking; it's just not as positive now, still totally usable. I'm undecided on the me being an asshole thing.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Best to pay it no mind Benjamin. I've seen this Snupe character at some of the local crags. He's just a negative guy that takes out his frustrations with his lack of climbing ability out on everyone else. He probably couldn't send Unusual Suspects and came here to vent. I think he's also one of those young earth creationists, so your whole bit about the earth being 4 billion years old fell on deaf ears.

By Jeff constine
Aug 5, 2013

Nothing has changed on Unusual Suspects,, I do laps on it weekly, it is the same as its be since i put it up..That climb Is way easy.. Try my 13b just under Perro..Yahoo Predator 8a It will Spank your ass off.. way way harder.

Unusual Suspects feels like 5.9 to me..So does Perro

By Tony Sartin
Oct 5, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Hey Medusa, do you mean that 8a/13b variation to a variation? The one you added two bolts to and rated but have yet to redpoint? True, that 10 feet of climbing brilliance is substantially harder. Let us know how much harder, if and when someday you actually send it. Oh, and thanks for making all of us rookies feel better by sugar bagging that 5.9 and rating it 12b. When we claw our way up it, we feel like heros. But wait, does that mean Yahoo Predator feels like 5.10 to you? And if it does, what's the hold-up on a rock star like yourself sending it?