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Untapped 
Up Valley Goes Downtown 
Urban Fringe 
VHS or Beta 

Untapped 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Scott Hahn on Apr 9, 2010
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Untapped climbs the left wall. The wall isn't act...

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Description 

This route is pretty good. Worth doing if you've already done some of the ultra classics. It's not very sustained. Untapped starts off with 4 bolts of easier climbing through some hollow crack features(only matter of time before some of this breaks), to get to a ledge. Stand or sit which ever you prefer, but get ready for the business, cause it will come at you quick. Do a balancy move off of a mono to reach a jug. Then fire through the first crux. With the lack of feet, it will make you work for it. Next, try to recover because, the next super techy & sequency boulder problem comes fast. When you finally get to the top be ready to see the weirdest set of anchors you have ever seen. I'll leave it to your imagination or gratification for those who climb it.

I felt as though the first crux may have broken at some time, due to the difficulty and lack of rubber on feet I used.

If anyone knows who put up the first ascent, please let me know so I can post it.


Location 

Hike a little farther down the trail, about 100', from Blast From the Past, which is the obvious big roof. You'll see a dihedral. Untapped is on the L side of it with the obvious ledge a 1/3rd of the way up. Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception is just right and heads up the slab.


Protection 

9 bolts + 2 for anchors.



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