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Unstrung Harp
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | John Steiger, Scott Brown, Ray Ringle, 1976 |
Page Views: | 1,463 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Feb 19, 2010 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Scott Brown envisioned this line, placed its only bolt on lead, and worked out the crux, only to take a 30 foot whipper after pumping out on the easier crack after the crux. He slammed into the wall within a few feet of the ground, shattering the back of his helmet. Freaked out, we quickly left for the bar. A few weeks later we came back, on Halloween Day. I'm not sure how I ended up with the first lead, but I was a nervous wreck all the way to the belay. For some reason, this pitch never got an R rating (or S -- for "serious" -- back then), so I assume that, despite our experience, it protects adequately. For purists, do the second pitch as described below; for tourists, I suggest doing Gripping Space for the second pitch.
(1) Climb more or less straight up to the bolt, then traverse left and up to an obvious crack/flake system. From its end climb to a pinnacle-like ledge midway on the second pitch of the Standard Route. (2) Climb up a little and strike back out right onto the face and up to a roof or bulge. Turn it (5.9 R) to easier ground above and eventually the top via any one of a number of other routes.
Regarding the name, it's the title of an Edward Gorey story about a very odd author.
(1) Climb more or less straight up to the bolt, then traverse left and up to an obvious crack/flake system. From its end climb to a pinnacle-like ledge midway on the second pitch of the Standard Route. (2) Climb up a little and strike back out right onto the face and up to a roof or bulge. Turn it (5.9 R) to easier ground above and eventually the top via any one of a number of other routes.
Regarding the name, it's the title of an Edward Gorey story about a very odd author.
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