Unsolicited Advice  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  T. Bubb & Micah I, 6/26/11 New Route:  Yes Season:  Faces somewhat North. Submitted By:  Tony B on Jun 29, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Unsolicited Advice climbs the obvious, right-leani...

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Description 

This is a longer climb via the nature of the slanting cracks, and a fairly good climb at that. The lower section is interesting and mellow, and the upper section changes the character of the climb and provides a crux, albeit only 5.8.

Start up into the wide right-leaning crack and follow this for a brief section of wide climbing. A #5 Camalot would work here, but if you don't have one the climbing is not difficult and smaller placements are available shortly. Continue up and right as the wide crack splits into a smaller crack and an upward facing flake. Continue onward on more moderate terrain, heading up and right on a continuous crack system to intercept a short but striking, left-leaning, left-facing, red dihedral. Find the brief sections of the crack in this corner where it is not flaring for both good gear and good locks and execute crux moves to finish this section of rock to the top.

Location 

This climb is the 3rd climb down and left from the right-most routes on the 3rd Advisor. This is 40 feet down and left from the Northwest-most point of rock at the summit. The climb starts in the striking and obvious right-facing, right-leaning, wide crack/undercling and ascends this up and right for a good distance to reach the obvious left-facing left-leaning hanging dihedral at the top of the cliff, which supplies the crux.

Protection 

Protection from fingers to fist with optional BIG cams to protecting the wide diagonal crack down low. Without the wider gear, the rating would be PG/PG-13 on moderate territory (?5.6?).