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 ADVANCED
The Bank
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2010A S 
2150 A.D. S 
5.10 Crack T 
5.10a corner T 
5.11 Arete S 
5.9 crack T 
A Sharp S 
Abu Simbel  S 
Aerial Solution S 
Alcohollica  S 
Alfalfa Omega S 
Another Bolted Crack T,S 
Aoxamoxoa S 
Apple Cracks, The S 
Aspiring Frog S 
B Flat S 
B/C S 
Baby Face Nelson S 
Back To The Future S 
Bambi Meets Godzilla S 
Binge and Purge S 
Birthing the Piggy T 
Bits and Pieces S 
Black Hole Sun S 
Bridget the Midget S 
Bum Cakes (formerly listed as Buns) S 
C Major T 
Cat Ate My Homework, The S 
Cerebral Brain Freeze S 
CJ & The Lesbian Seagull S 
Concentrated Weirdness S 
Courage and Enlightenment S 
Crab Nation S 
Dancin` Shoes S 
Dave Dangle S 
Deconstructing Harry S 
Dillinger S 
Disciples of Hell S 
Doggie Style T 
Don Show, The S 
Dust Lust S 
Emperor's Robe S 
Energy Before Ecstasy S 
Ethics? What Ethics? S 
Flesh Tuxedo S 
From Russia With Love S 
Future Fossil S 
Gambino S 
Gen X ation (aka Musso Route) S 
Generation X S 
Ginger Midget, The S 
Goodfellas S 
Harry S 
Heaven is Waiting S 
Heavy Weather S 
Heretic S 
Hostile Crankover S 
Ice Cream Hangover S 
Incredible Weather S 
jasonbecker.com S 
Knot Too Many Roaches S 
Ladies' Night In Buffalo S 
Large Marge S 
Le Petit Verdon S 
Le Pincher S 
Lefty S 
Lesser of Two Evils S 
Let Me Out S 
Leverage S 
Lick and a Promise S 
Lime Street S 
Living in America S 
Lloyd T 
Lost Planet Airman S 
Loves Me Like a Rock S 
Lynch Mob S 
Ma Barker S 
Machine Gun Kelly S 
McFly S 
Metamusso S 
Mighty Mouse S 
Misery S 
Mismatched Partners S 
Neopolitan Headrush S 
New Comer (aka New Corner) S 
No Future for the Timid S 
No Rest For the Wicked S 
Number 1 Super Guy S 
On the Mushroom S 
Once Upon a Time S 
Otis S 
Peking S 
Pennies and Piggydust T 
Peter Pan S 
Pig City Nights S 
Pink Torpedo S 
Piņon Slalom S 
Plate Tectonics S 
Poncho S 
Poncho and the Three Perverts S 
Power Broker S 
Pretty Boy Floyd S 
Primal Scream S 
Project Focus S 
Puking Yuppies T,S 
Purple Packer Smacker S 
R.A.M.M. S 
Razor Burn (aka Stewart's Slab) S 
Richter Scale S 
Ripped T 
Rock Frog S 
Scarf and Barf S 
Scarface S 
Season Down Under S 
Shady Character S 
Shelfish S 
Silver Rain S 
Solitude S 
Sonic Youth S 
Soprano S 
Sparkle In The Rain S 
Starving Hippies S 
Staying Power S 
Stick It S 
Stomach Stapler S 
Stormy Weather S 
Stranger in Moscow S 
Sty in the Sky S 
SuedeHead S 
Surreal Estate S 
Sweepings, The S 
Taping Tendons S 
Team Anorexia S 
Tendon Respite S 
This is Your Brain S 
Thunder Tactics S 
Thunder Thighs S 
Tired Arms Recovery Program (T.A.R.P.) S 
Tribal Boundary S 
Trundle S 
Tuff Shed (aka B&C) S 
Unknown 5.7 S 
Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) S 
Unusual Weather S 
Ussen S 
War In The Banks S 
Welcome to Shelf Road S 
What's Biting Me? S 
Who Asked You? S 
Why Left S 
Will Purr For Treats S 
You Were Meant For Me S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA:  Mark Tjaden, Stewart Green
Season: Winter works well.
Page Views: 1,459
Submitted By: Matt Strauser on Dec 23, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Craig in the Brothel.

Description 

This face climb works left, then back right and then up to the anchors. The crux between the 6th and 7th bolt can be avoided by climbing to the left and then traversing right to clip the last bolt.

Location 

This route is on the Piggy Bank Wall between Pinon Slalom and Ladies Night In Buffalo.

Protection 

7 bolts to a ledge with high anchors above.


Photos of Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) Slideshow Add Photo
Dave having fun in The Brothel.
Dave having fun in The Brothel.
The Brothel.
BETA PHOTO: The Brothel.
Sadie leading The Unsaid.
Sadie leading The Unsaid.
The Unsaid on the left, and Pinon Slalom on the right.
BETA PHOTO: The Unsaid on the left, and Pinon Slalom on the ri...

Comments on Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Well protected and fairly straightforward climbing all the way to the anchors.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This climb reminded me of "old school" bolting, where they are spaced out a little more widely but placed where you need them. The bottom is slabby like climbing on granite.

If you are used to clipping a bolt before the hard moves (with the bolt above and the rope above you (a "top rope")), this is not that kind of route. But it is still well protected.
By LmsCo
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A much better choice for the 5.8 leader than Ladies Night in Buffalo to the left, despite what the guidebook says. This one is casual, especially if you head straight up and then traverse right to the 7th bolt.