Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Mark Tjaden, Stewart Green |
| Season: | Winter works well. |
| Submitted By: | Matt Strauser on Dec 23, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: The Brothel.
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Description This face climb works left, then back right and then up to the anchors. The crux between the 6th and 7th bolt can be avoided by climbing to the left and then traversing right to clip the last bolt.
Location This route is on the Piggy Bank Wall between Pinon Slalom and Ladies Night In Buffalo.
Protection 7 bolts to a ledge with high anchors above.
Dave having fun in The Brothel.
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Sadie leading The Unsaid.
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Craig in the Brothel.
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BETA PHOTO: The Unsaid on the left, and Pinon Slalom on the ri...
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| Comments on Unsaid, The (aka The Brothel) |
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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 29, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Well protected and fairly straightforward climbing all the way to the anchors. |
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.8
| This climb reminded me of "old school" bolting, where they are spaced out a little more widely but placed where you need them. The bottom is slabby like climbing on granite.
If you are used to clipping a bolt before the hard moves (with the bolt above and the rope above you (a "top rope")), this is not that kind of route. But it is still well protected. |
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