Unsa Mani Mikko  5.12a

118 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Mackie Makinano Submitted By:  Rajiv Ayyangar on Oct 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Rajiv past the boulder start

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

"Unsa Mani" for short, this route can feel reachy, even if you're over 6ft. The route starts on a multi-hold with several different ways to grip it, depending on your particular strengths. Do you like pinches? pockets? underclings? crimps? You'll find many ways to do the start, but all of them are easier if you are tall.

At the second bolt, traverse right on sharp pockets, and pull a few moderate moves to the unique crux, involving a difficult clip and a large expanse of blank limestone that must be somehow bypassed. A core of steel is helpful, or failing that, a 6-foot-plus ape-index yields alternate, easier beta. If you're discouraged like I was initially, take heart: the first ascensionist stands all of 5'2" tall.

After navigating the first tufa section, get a no-hands then traverse left into a pumpy finish. If you forget footwork and try to thug your way through this, you may be in for a heartbreaker, as the top does not yield easily. The 35-foot extension is also worth doing ("Roller Coaster", 5.12c/d)

Location 

Area 5, just right of the popular 5.11 Vina Kulafu, and is located two routes left of White Flower. Look for a crazy lumpy polished hold with an undercling pocket in the lower part, and a pinch at the top.

Protection 

7 bolts + ring anchors. Extension requires 8 additional draws for a total of 15, plus ring anchors.

Photos of Unsa Mani Mikko Slideshow

Add Photo

Rajiv on Unsa Mani Mikko 5.12a Cantabaco Cebu Phil...	Rajiv cruising the first 20 feet!	Rajiv stretching out
Rajiv going for the redpoint	Rajiv past the 2nd crux	Rajiv ascending in good style
Rajiv nearing the 3rd crux	Rajiv rocked it I gotta say!