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Cantabaco, Toledo City, Cebu
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Unsa Mani Mikko S 
Victim, The S 
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White Flower S 

Unsa Mani Mikko 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mackie Makinano
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: Rajiv Ayyangar on Oct 29, 2012

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Rajiv past the 2nd crux

Description 

"Unsa Mani" for short, this route can feel reachy, even if you're over 6ft. The route starts on a multi-hold with several different ways to grip it, depending on your particular strengths. Do you like pinches? pockets? underclings? crimps? You'll find many ways to do the start, but all of them are easier if you are tall.

At the second bolt, traverse right on sharp pockets, and pull a few moderate moves to the unique crux, involving a difficult clip and a large expanse of blank limestone that must be somehow bypassed. A core of steel is helpful, or failing that, a 6-foot-plus ape-index yields alternate, easier beta. If you're discouraged like I was initially, take heart: the first ascensionist stands all of 5'2" tall.

After navigating the first tufa section, get a no-hands then traverse left into a pumpy finish. If you forget footwork and try to thug your way through this, you may be in for a heartbreaker, as the top does not yield easily. The 35-foot extension is also worth doing ("Roller Coaster", 5.12c/d)

Location 

Area 5, just right of the popular 5.11 Vina Kulafu, and is located two routes left of White Flower. Look for a crazy lumpy polished hold with an undercling pocket in the lower part, and a pinch at the top.

Protection 

7 bolts + ring anchors. Extension requires 8 additional draws for a total of 15, plus ring anchors.


Photos of Unsa Mani Mikko Slideshow Add Photo
Rajiv rocked it I gotta say! <br />
Rajiv rocked it I gotta say!
Rajiv ascending in good style <br />
Rajiv ascending in good style
Rajiv going for the redpoint <br />
Rajiv going for the redpoint
Rajiv nearing the 3rd crux
Rajiv nearing the 3rd crux
Rajiv stretching out
Rajiv stretching out
Rajiv past the boulder start
Rajiv past the boulder start
Rajiv cruising the first 20 feet!
Rajiv cruising the first 20 feet!
Rajiv on Unsa Mani Mikko 5.12a Cantabaco Cebu Philippines 2012
Rajiv on Unsa Mani Mikko 5.12a Cantabaco Cebu Phil...

Comments on Unsa Mani Mikko Add Comment
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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Nov 13, 2012

Thanks for taking those, Eric! I'd forgotten you were shooting that day.