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This route is on the blunt prow left of where old reliable succumbed to the ages. Start atop old reliable carnage in double cracks to gain the sloping ledge where the first bolt is clipped. Follow bolts (good foot work neccessary) to the sheer face w/right-diagonaling crack. Follow crack to commiting finish moves. One of my favorite clip-ups in the canyon.
Medium-to-small cams for the start. Stoppers or TCUs for top crack. QDs.
Jul 10, 2007
There is a fixed nut in that top crack.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
wow, this seemed really hard, I couldn't even do a bunch of the moves on it. The fixed nut is still there.
|By Ben Ricketts|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2013
I like the quote "One of my favorite clip ups in the canyon." It is a great clip up - with 15 feet of 5.10 crack climbing and then ends with maybe 30 feet of gear climbing, including the crux.
It is a great route, highly recommended and it is really well protected. I also think this one is probably 12c.