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Unplanned Ascending of a Rope
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Feb 26, 2014
On the North America Wall in 1977.
J Q wrote:
The answer is: take off that stupid strap on your chalk bag and replace it with prussic chord. Now you can prussic when it's unplanned. Simple



Awesome idea!
Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
Feb 26, 2014
Me again!
Mark Hudon wrote:
Awesome idea!


Thanks, but I wish it was a selfless one. I have always been scared of pulling off a rock and killing my belayer, so, as a human with rational self interest, this is the most effective way to live if you kill your belayer while sport climbing.

And of course they are using a gri-gri.
J Q
Joined Mar 11, 2012
58 points
Feb 26, 2014
On the North America Wall in 1977.
J Q wrote:
....this is the most effective way to live if you kill your belayer while sport climbing. And of course they are using a gri-gri.


Good point, hadn't thought of that.
Mark Hudon
Joined Jul 27, 2009
280 points
Feb 27, 2014
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
You've got a second rope hanging next to you? Then you can get up pretty effectively with no equipment.

Tie an overhand loop in the free rope around thigh level. Put both feet in it and stand up, screaming "take!" at the belayer who yards in the rope with as much tension as possible. Take your feet out of the loop (you are now hanging at or near the higher level achieved by standing up in the overhand loop), untie it (or not if you are really pumped) and tie a new overhand loop at your new higher thigh level. Repeat until you can continue climbing or until you reach the top.

If your feet can take the pressure, you can forget the overhand loop and just wrap the hanging line around your feet four or five times and stand up on that. (You bring your knees to your chest and do the wrapping in that position so you get a good stand-up.) It will probably get painful if you have to repeat this many times, but if you only have to gain a ten feet or so to get out of trouble, this will work.

Try to get your feet as high as possible while still being able to stand up, because you will lose some ground to rope stretch. (If the hanging line is a static rope, so much the better.)

If there is a second person up there who can belay, then they can go on belay on the second rope and haul the original foot loop up every time you unweight it by hanging on the original belay line. This method goes pretty quickly.

All that said, ascending a rope with prussiks (or other friction knots) is a basic skill that all climbers need to be able to do.
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
288 points
Feb 27, 2014
Kyle, since you have two ropes and I assume the climbing is not overhanging, I would simply keep them on a direct belay and get them to batman up the fixed line with their feet on the rock as you belay them up. If their hands are soft, aid gloves will help.

This means that they can get over the hard bits but still enjoy the rest of the climb and don't need to know how to do anything or faff around clipping stuff on and off the rope.
David Coley
From UK
Joined Oct 26, 2013
50 points
Feb 27, 2014
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
J Q wrote:
The answer is: take off that stupid strap on your chalk bag and replace it with prussic chord. Now you can prussic when it's unplanned. Simple

Bingo. Besides you get to feel like macgyver when you use it. Handy for replacing/ backing up raps too.
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,752 points
Feb 27, 2014
High Exposure
Kyle Robson wrote:
Googling 2-1 drop loops isn't giving me much. Can anyone share a link?


Some good advice in this thread. My vote is carry some Prusiks or use the second line you rappelled on. But, since you asked about the drop loop method, here are some links:

Page 129 here: tinyurl.com/ldbw4p2
Page 72 here: tinyurl.com/me5cdgq

Get some training and/or practice in a safe place. I Googled "drop loop self rescue"
wivanoff
Joined Mar 3, 2012
121 points


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