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Routes in Sun Wall
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Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bouffant Curl T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Le Crimp T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Mainline Express T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toxic Wasteland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Ben Kegan, Paco B (ground support) |
| Page Views: | 1,202 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Feb 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
This is a very cool line and a must do if you're into steep brows and good rock! With the addition of 2 key bolt placements (placed several years after the FA) it is safer but still requires a keen eye for protecting eyebrows.
P-1
Start on Nick Danger. Climb to the bolt (where the pin used to be), but instead of moving left, step up and right to horizontal which takes a #1 tcu. Move directly right here onto the eyebrow laced face (don't climb the groove, which is harder). Continue up the moderate face (~10'right of groove) getting lots of gear (some shallow) to a bolt below the bulge. Climb straight up to a # .75 camalot in a jug/brow. Crank the deadpoint-type move and continue on steep jugs, passing a #1 tcu and another bolt to the ledge. Belay on gear. 5.10++
P-2
Pull a mini bulge via small flake a little to the left. Continue up the center of the face to end with all the other lines at the large ledge with the Irish Jig rap anchors. ~ 5.8
P-1
Start on Nick Danger. Climb to the bolt (where the pin used to be), but instead of moving left, step up and right to horizontal which takes a #1 tcu. Move directly right here onto the eyebrow laced face (don't climb the groove, which is harder). Continue up the moderate face (~10'right of groove) getting lots of gear (some shallow) to a bolt below the bulge. Climb straight up to a # .75 camalot in a jug/brow. Crank the deadpoint-type move and continue on steep jugs, passing a #1 tcu and another bolt to the ledge. Belay on gear. 5.10++
P-2
Pull a mini bulge via small flake a little to the left. Continue up the center of the face to end with all the other lines at the large ledge with the Irish Jig rap anchors. ~ 5.8
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