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 ADVANCED
(04) Showdown Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Finger Flake T 
Frigidaire S 
Gunslinger S 
Precious S 
SideKick S 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed 2 T 
Velcro Bootie S 

Unnamed 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Carolyn Parker & John Kear, 2004
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: Bryan T on Oct 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The climb

Description 

Decent gear crack/face climb with good pro. Crux is first 10 feet, then it is sustained 5.8- climbing to top. Rock is sharp through the crux.

Location 

25 feet left of the Unnamed 5.7 "Finger Flake". 5 feet right of the Head high detached flake.

Protection 

Pro is good. Set of C4 cams to #2. Set of nuts. 6-8 quick draws. 2 Bolts with Chains at the top.


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By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Carolyn Parker and I cleaned and bolted the anchor for this climb in 2004 which was likely the FA. We thought is was about 5.8.
By Bryan T
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 3, 2011

Yea, I had a hard time on the start cause the rock was so damn cold, then I cut my hand and was bleeding everywhere. Not a fun start that day.