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 ADVANCED
Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse S 
Inner Sanctum S 
Jaws S 
Lichen to Liken T 
Pony Express T,S 
Rusty-P, The T,TR 
Thunder Toad S 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 
Unnamed T,S 
Unnamed Fissure T 
Unnatural Attraction S 

Unnamed 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 292
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Jul 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Micah climbs through the crux

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Clip a high first bolt with some difficulty, and begin to cruise up easy terrain. Near the top the angle steepens and the holds shrink, presenting a sequential crux by last bolt. Clip this final bolt and make a tenuous traverse right to a nice tight hand and big finger crack. Follow this a few more feet to the anchor of Pony Express.

This route seemed a bit soft for the grade compared to other 5.11- TP climbs. It's also very well protected.

Location 

The second bolted route on the right side (as you walk in) of Beastie Alley

Protection 

Quickdraws for bolts(6?) and maybe a .5 and/or .75 camalot for the top. Mediums sized nuts would also protect the final crack.

chains at the top, shared with Pony Express


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Micah, past the initial difficulties
Micah, past the initial difficulties

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By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun bouldery start to exciting delicate finish. Nice route!