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Clip a high first bolt with some difficulty, and begin to cruise up easy terrain. Near the top the angle steepens and the holds shrink, presenting a sequential crux by last bolt. Clip this final bolt and make a tenuous traverse right to a nice tight hand and big finger crack. Follow this a few more feet to the anchor of Pony Express.
This route seemed a bit soft for the grade compared to other 5.11- TP climbs. It's also very well protected.
The second bolted route on the right side (as you walk in) of Beastie Alley
Quickdraws for bolts(6?) and maybe a .5 and/or .75 camalot for the top. Mediums sized nuts would also protect the final crack.
chains at the top, shared with Pony Express
Micah, past the initial difficulties
|By Matthias Lang|
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Fun bouldery start to exciting delicate finish. Nice route!