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Routes in Mount Huntington
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Brother Laurence T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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no name T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Once is Enough T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Perennial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Southern Migration T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Bradley White, 1984? maybe 82 |
| Page Views: | 1,294 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Jan 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This climb started out as a free solo to check out the upper left side of the cliff that turned into an epic.
The climb begins at the v-groove ramp to left of the wet inside corner. After v-groove I traversed right onto tree ledge above corner. Easy upward right traverse ledges went to the dirt and grasses goat path. Path thinned to no retreat possible at the large slab. Went up slab on thin friction switch backing until lower angle and in the middle of the upper higher pitches of what became 'Southern Migration'. Where SM goes up right to finish I went left onto the treed foot ledge. I stayed there a while terrified of the finish. Psyched myself up to I can do this and got up the steep face thirty feet to the top. Went up the right side direct to ramp with tiny tree in it. I used that tree for a hand hold to get to the finishing face smears.
The best on sight free solo I've done and the first with constantly on the edge while route finding. Had to stay focused to do precisely once what I had to do without stopping or slide off. Surprised I lived after much greasy friction and was very happy to finish with a great stress reliever bucket hold at the summit.
This climb was life changing. I had to keep my cool under extreme duress and more so I got the confidence booster to go climb new ledges free solo. I became addicted to doing on sight soloing and Kept my solo addiction private until recently. I didn't promote dangerous climbing to my competitive peers on purpose.
I've now climbed 'Southern Migration' and seen again where I went up.
The climb is mostly on high quality rock. Its worth the effort to place 9-12 bolts bolts. There no stances to drill and some drilling likely needed by aid.
Two stars because of the goat path approach for two great upper classic pitches.
The climb begins at the v-groove ramp to left of the wet inside corner. After v-groove I traversed right onto tree ledge above corner. Easy upward right traverse ledges went to the dirt and grasses goat path. Path thinned to no retreat possible at the large slab. Went up slab on thin friction switch backing until lower angle and in the middle of the upper higher pitches of what became 'Southern Migration'. Where SM goes up right to finish I went left onto the treed foot ledge. I stayed there a while terrified of the finish. Psyched myself up to I can do this and got up the steep face thirty feet to the top. Went up the right side direct to ramp with tiny tree in it. I used that tree for a hand hold to get to the finishing face smears.
The best on sight free solo I've done and the first with constantly on the edge while route finding. Had to stay focused to do precisely once what I had to do without stopping or slide off. Surprised I lived after much greasy friction and was very happy to finish with a great stress reliever bucket hold at the summit.
This climb was life changing. I had to keep my cool under extreme duress and more so I got the confidence booster to go climb new ledges free solo. I became addicted to doing on sight soloing and Kept my solo addiction private until recently. I didn't promote dangerous climbing to my competitive peers on purpose.
I've now climbed 'Southern Migration' and seen again where I went up.
The climb is mostly on high quality rock. Its worth the effort to place 9-12 bolts bolts. There no stances to drill and some drilling likely needed by aid.
Two stars because of the goat path approach for two great upper classic pitches.
Location
Cross the tongue of SM and hike up the steep long hill to the wet corner. Its on the left central side of the cliff near is a large erosion hole. To the right of this hole is v-groove start left of the wet corner. I exited into the woods to get down. Rappelling is the best way down by tree. The summit forest was horrid looking blown down trees. Walked on the recently huge amount of blown down trees high up horizontally above the forest floor with spiked tree trunks below. Ridiculously dangerous traversing up there and fascinatingly secure above the dense old pine forest by the tree branches.
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