This route receives a lot of attention due to its moderate grade and easy access. Its very easy to set up a toprope on this line. The climbing, however, is fairly awkward in spots despite the grade.
The route begins up easy blocks to a low-profile arete. If toproping, its easy to stem up the dihedral to the right. This off-route variation goes at about 5.8, so this can be a good option if you have a lot of beginners with you. Leaders will want to stay on the slabby left side of the arete until it starts to overhang. At the overhang, turn the arete to the right, and continue up the relatively easy face for 15 feet. Just before the top, ascend a tricky bulge with high steps and awkward groping around the arete.
Third bolted route right (S) of the downclimb, or the route left of Just Say No to Crack.
5 bolts, 2 BA.
Beginning the crux bulge of Unnamed.
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 24, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This route is in a serious need for upgrading all of the lead bolts. If you do lead it in its current condition, be sure to hang instead of falling.