Unnamed Tunnel 1 Highball
|Consensus: || Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]|
|Season: ||Long as there's no snow|
|Page Views: ||542|
|Submitted By: ||Bjorn on Aug 17, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: For all your short cliff highball needs.
|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
This problem provides good, if not immediately endearing climbing. The footholds are sparse, slick and never in the optimal location for the moves they support. Handholds are off-balance sidepulls and odd crack pod finger lock pockets. Most moves, from bottom to fluttery topout, feel insecure. From the first good topout holds, relax, breathe, and slowly climb around the blunt arete to the left. These moves are easier than the climb proper, but you're way off the ground, probably pumped and no longer over the pads. Downclimb the 5.7, broken corner to the left of the problem.
This problem would be a poor choice for a climber who sometimes sends 5.10s or has no head for highballs. A fall from higher moves, even onto pads, could have you in a cast or casts all summer. Be safe!
From the parking at the downstream side of tunnel one, walk down the well-established approach trail till it meets the water's edge. On your right, at the first clean section of the cliff, is a section of face with discontinuous crack system holds vaguely describing a tall, somewhat scary problem.
The steep blunt arete to the left may go as a significantly harder problem. Starts from cool undercling.
At least one pad, preferably three. A spotter or three might be nice, but who's got friends?
Any input welcome as far as the grades go... I tho...
From: golden, co
Nov 25, 2011
If you are talking about the right sloping crack with the finger locks and the vertical crack to the right center (all liebacks) of the picture, it is not V2...I would say significantly harder for sure. The farthest right crack up by the tree I would say is V2. The leftmost arete in the picture has to be a mid-range boulder problem (V6-8). I have climbed V4 at BRC and Movement, and all of these problems seemed significantly harder...luckily I was top rope soloing or I would have ended up with broken ankles.... You definitely want lots of thick pads, or a rope and belayer (there are top anchors, and a chain slung around a huge boulder for the rightmost crack.... They are both accesible for TR).
By Andy B
Apr 22, 2014
I gave these a go today. Not bad little problems. Super close to the parking lot.
- Farthest right seems V1+. Some jugs mixed in with a hand crack. Definitely no harder than a 5.10 line.
- Straight up middle V2-3. Fun sidepulls and small feet at first. Soon turns to crimp and awkward undercling.
- Left side. Didn't send. Hardest of the three lines.