Unnamed SL 7
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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed 5.10a in Pirate's cove.
Start in the cave under a nice corner hand crack. Climb up and out of the cave to reach a 10 ft section of perfect hand crack. The crack then widens for a bit and then goes back to perfect hands. There are plenty of face holds to stem from and gear can be placed in some of the horizontals to save your #2 camalots. Nice climb!
This is the first obvious corner/crack that you will find when walking from the Coliseum Area during low water.
Double #2 Camalots, A pretty standard rack. You can lower from the shuts on the sport route 15 feet to the left of the top of the corner system or take it to the top (no top anchor).
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This was a great climb! Got on it this past weekend after walking by and seeing the beautiful stemming crack. This climb could take a rack of 7 #2s and a set of nuts, but 2 #2s would be a minimum and 2 #1s are also nice. The jams up the first corner section are fantastic.
There is now an anchor at the very top of the route and worth going all the way up. The sport route anchors are a little more than half way up and out left a fair distance.