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 ADVANCED
Pirate's Cove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As Surely as the Flower Blooms T 
Indian Summer T 
Mutiny S 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 5.10a T 
Unnamed SL 7 T 

Unnamed SL 7 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 858
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 24, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed 5.10a in Pirate's cove.

Description 

Start in the cave under a nice corner hand crack. Climb up and out of the cave to reach a 10 ft section of perfect hand crack. The crack then widens for a bit and then goes back to perfect hands. There are plenty of face holds to stem from and gear can be placed in some of the horizontals to save your #2 camalots. Nice climb!

Location 

This is the first obvious corner/crack that you will find when walking from the Coliseum Area during low water.

Protection 

Double #2 Camalots, A pretty standard rack. You can lower from the shuts on the sport route 15 feet to the left of the top of the corner system or take it to the top (no top anchor).


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By GWB
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was a great climb! Got on it this past weekend after walking by and seeing the beautiful stemming crack. This climb could take a rack of 7 #2s and a set of nuts, but 2 #2s would be a minimum and 2 #1s are also nice. The jams up the first corner section are fantastic.

There is now an anchor at the very top of the route and worth going all the way up. The sport route anchors are a little more than half way up and out left a fair distance.