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North Corner
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Dance of the Infidel  T 
Easter Island T,S 
North Corner Layback 
SS Maywood T 
Unnamed OW T,TR 

Unnamed OW 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 626
Submitted By: JNE on May 12, 2012

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That's the one. For perspective, the vertical ris...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a cool sixty degree overhanging, left-leaning, offwidth roof. It is a testament to Scarpelli, he did this one onsight as a TR back in the '80s or early '90s and called it 5.11.


It is not actually on North Corner, but that's the closest formation. To find this, follow the northeastern terminus of North Corner into the woods down in the valley below The Heap. A little past the terminus you will find a squatty pointy formation, and this roof is on the side facing down into the valley.


TR bolts on top. This could also be done as a short one or two piece lead if you wanted.

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May 12, 2012

I had heard rumor of someone finding a "new" route in this area that fit the description for this quite well, and given the fact that this route has never been recorded, I decided it would be best to post it up and clear up any possible confusion.

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