Unnamed, Jr. 5.9
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Stemming up the middle.
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Description This is the right-most of the two isolated, Unnamed routes approximately 250 meters east of GoldenEye on the south wall of the Technicolor Buttress.
The route follows a double-crack system inside of a stem-box/chimney/vertical tunnel that gets steeper and more fun as you go. Fairly sustained with a bit of a crux about two-thirds of the way up. An interesting oddity.
Protection Takes a variety of gear between .5 inches and 5 inches. Will even soundly accept nuts in the right-side crack. A good route for playing around with different gear placements as several options are available at any given spot.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008
rating: 5.10-
| If I'm on the right route, this was really wierd ending. You have to leave the crack and step left on this ledge to the bolt anchors with slings and rap rings. You might have gear directly right at this point. I climbed straight past the anchor half-way up through the sandy / muddy roof before I realized that I had passed the anchors. Not great but ok.
CL |
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2008
| I don't think you were on the right route Clayton: there was no ledge, the chains (no slings) are inside the chimney, there are no sand/muddy roofs. Great route, fun chimney/stemming all the way up! |
By Kelsey Sheely
From: Durango, CO
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| I'm pretty sure this route is the first pitch of the Crowning, and although it's fun and shady climb. It's soft, even for a 5.9 |
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