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 ADVANCED
Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse 
Inner Sanctum 
Jaws 
Lichen to Liken 
Pony Express 
Rusty-P, The 
Thunder Toad 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) 
Unnamed 
Unnamed Fissure 
Unnatural Attraction 

Unnamed Fissure 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I British: M 1c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I British: M 1c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Kei Davis on Sep 6, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Fissure to right of Pony Express
Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ridiculously easy, two emimently-protectable fifth-class moves, remainder is 3rd/4th class. Go straight up the fissure to huge boulder at top to tie off to (can't see in photo, it just keeps going up and over). Up right of top is a stout natural bridge that is a nice secondary anchor for belaying. Provides great silhouette view of climbers ascending Puddin'/Yikes Dikes (South Rock) and Mosaic Wall.

This tops out about 15' above chains for a mixed sport/trad climb (5.8-9) left of Mosaic Wall and up into sort of an alcove. Immediately to the right of this climb is a big dirty loose-looking vertical crack. It's much easier to go for the rap anchors for Pony Express and a sport climb in Beastie Alley.


Location 

Gapingly obvious deep fissure just to right of start of Pony Express.


Protection 

Plenty of opportunity for medium and small cams, tricams, nuts. Forty or so 3rd-class feet down from top on climber's left are the rap anchors for Pony Express and at the top of sport route in Beastie Alley.



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