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This is quite a good route. I was surprised, and I really enjoyed it. Mostly clean with little loose rock, although there are some minor thumpers. The climbing is pretty continuous with the crux at the final roof. The gear is good although a little sparse at the bottom. There are surprising gear placements and holds.
Since this is an obvious line, this may have been climbed earlier, although there were no signs of previous passage. I excavated several excellent gear placements at spots where gear was wanted.
See "Location" for the start. Climb a thin crack left of the grungy left facing corner. About 15' up step right and climb just left of the corner. Follow the crack system up past some fun jamming and stemming moves. At the roof, get good gear and then stretch to place the #4 Camalot high and deep. Undercling out right and hope for the best. Get a good directional and walk right to a tree from which you can belay and rappel.
Walk left up the hill from Eagle's Bier to where the wall gets shorter. There are couple of obvious, left-facing corner. This route is the corner that leads to the roof at the top with the wide crack on its right side. See photo.
To get down, walk right on a ledge just after the roof to a tree. A 70m rope gets you to the ground. A 60m rope might get you to scrambling distance of the ground, but there's another tree mid way you can use. Bring slings and rings.
I used a single set of nuts from small to to big, a single set of micro to finger sized cams and doubles to #3 Camalot. You need a single #4 Camalot that you can place and back clean several times, saving the final placement for the roof at the top. If you are height-challenged you may need a bigger cam for the roof or do without.
The slightly blurry start.
Photo by Luke Clarke.
Stemming and some surprising holds and gear.
Approaching the roof. The roof looked grim, and I ...
The blurry crux, wondering what's above.
Photo by ...
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