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 ADVANCED
Orange Oswald Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Has a Bolt Gun S 
Barfing Butterflies S 
Chunko Goes Bowling S 
Fabulous Groupies S 
Hell With That, The T 
Hippie Dreams S 
Hunger Artist, The T 
Just Say No T 
Moon Pie Deluxe S 
Orange Dihedral T 
Orange Oswald S 
PDS S 
Scoot Your Muffin S 
She got the Bosch, I got Drilled S 
Souled Out S 
Strong Arming the Little Guy S 
Unnamed Crack T 
Unnamed Crack 5.6 T 
Voodoo Surfing S 

Unnamed Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,313
Submitted By: BrianWS on Jul 20, 2011

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Great hands through the final roof. Fingers below...

Description 

30 feet of good hands to red slings attached to a bomber fixed piece and a mostly secure fixed nut. Continue past to a ledge, climb through a 15 foot offwidth section, pull under and out the crack leading through the roof to the top.

By far the best gear line in Summersville.

Location 

Obvious crack to the right of Moon Pie Deluxe and Barfing Butterflies.

Protection 

No bolt anchor. There is a healthy tree with a collection of (mostly) good slings and rings directly at the end of the crack system.
Rack up to a #3 with some long runners for the offwidth.


Photos of Unnamed Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Alex on the lower section, before the first small roof.
Alex on the lower section, before the first small ...

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By Tyrel Fuller
From: Denver, CO
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The thirty feet of good 'hands' is more like 'fingers with a few pods for hand jams.' I recommend a rack up to 5 inches to really sew it up.
By Straylight
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There are fresh new anchors as of July 2014. Also didn't see any fixed pieces at all---the ones referred to in the description may well have been bootied by someone.

Bring a #2 for the final roof. I also think the 5.8 listed here is a bit of a sandbag.