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 ADVANCED
The Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm, The T 
Cannonball Corner T 
Cary Granite T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Emerald Highway, The T 
Escape Route T 
Espresso T 
Good Evans T 
Harry Cary T 
High Variance T 
Old Rappel Route T 
Parallel Universe T 
Phil-a-Guster T 
Rainbow Highway T 
Road Warrior T 
Rusty Dagger, The T 
Sinners On Sunday T 
Undertow T 
Undertow (free) T 
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unnamed Bolted Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A1-

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A1- [details]
FA: Strappo Hughes in Winter. Never went Free!
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Jul 15, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: I can't remember how many bolts. Hard after the xe...

Description 

This could be a direct start for Espresso. A nice crack up to a line of bolts past some big xenoliths. 5.11+ is what we remember. The first attempts were initiated by Kirk Miller and Rusty Kirkpatrick about 1989. Noel Childs and Gerry Rock must have been involved, too. Strappo Hughes was first to finish the pitch using double-boots in winter.

Mello approach: Use the Summit Lake gullies both in and out. Axe can be nice of snowfield.

Best descent is to clean the anchor and climb up the ledge toward Rusty Dagger. Classic walk off on ledge (third class) followed by hiking the gully back up to Summit Lake. See Map @ www.mountainproject.com/images/91/82/106199182_large_fed68f.>>>


Location 

This is the low point of the main wall, an apron below the big traverse ledge that starts Espresso. I remember a giant top rope was set up from the ledge once to work the route.


Protection 

The usual Black Wall monster rack isn't needed for this pitch. But it would be wise to bring more than a draw rack, just in case.



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