Unnamed Arete  5.11d

895 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Dave Lucas & Barak Shemai Season:  any Submitted By:  Charles Vernon on Jan 26, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Unnamed Arete

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is a spectacular, continuously overhanging pitch. It has no good rests and not one easy move. The rock is sharp and a bit crumbly in places, which is the only thing that keeps me from giving it 4 stars. It starts off with very steep, bouldery moves, then continues with less steep but more technical climbing up the arete. The climbing eases slightly once you reach the giant flake, but if you're like me, your arms are screaming by this point so things still feel quite hard. Lieback for glory to the anchors!

Rock Climbing New Mexico gives the route a grade of "11d/12a," which is not an option on mountainproject, so I just call it 11d. It could be hard 11 or easy 12.

Location 

Currently the furthest left route at the Rough and Readies--climbs the obvious arete w/bouldery start, to an overhanging flake. The first bolt is easy to clip, but a clip stick might be advisable for the second bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts, two bolt anchor.

Photos of Unnamed Arete Slideshow

Add Photo

A cleaner picture of the arete