Login with Facebook
Grotto End (R. Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Tenable S 
Trailer Park Girls S 
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) S 
Untenable S 
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 

Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ed/Rich Strang
Page Views: 1,783
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]


Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below the 4th bolt. Some more classic arete moves and a short dyno to a crimp out right lead up the arete. Around the 6th bolt traverse onto the left face via pockets and sharp crimps, up over a slight bulge and a horizontal crack just below the anchor.


Furthest S route on the W wall of the Grotto. #27 in the photo topo.


7 bolts, 2 BA

Comments on Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wa3lt
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is an Ed/Rich Strang route. I think they originally thought it was 13a!

Great route, perfect rock, good position. Classic.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 1, 2009

He he, only in NM! They must have graded the routes on the Beer Block.
By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 1, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Ed did put up The Thing and give it it's original 5.13c/d rating, the other routes, I don't know.

Though this did feel a bit harder than Trailer Park Girls.
By Grindrite
Sep 10, 2013

One of my favorite climbs in the Grotto. Always thought it was a solid 12b.