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Grotto Right (West Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
666 S 
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 
Class Act S 
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 
In the Court of the Crimson King S 
Rickety Rock S 
Ruffles Have Ridges T 
Sin after Sin S 
Tenable S 
Trailer Park Girls S 
Tweak Fuck  S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 
Unnamed Arête (a.k.a. UNA) S 
Untenable S 
Venarete S 
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 
Where the World Ends T,S 
Winter Capacity S 
Winter Warm-up T 
Woogie's Wild Ride S 

Unnamed Arête (a.k.a. UNA) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,079
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Ed Strang warms up on the techy arete UNA (UnNamed...


Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below the 4th bolt. Some more classic arete moves and a short dyno to a crimp out right lead up the arete. Around the 6th bolt traverse onto the left face via pockets and sharp crimps, up over a slight bulge and a horizontal crack just below the anchor.


Furthest S route on the W wall of the Grotto. #27 in the photo topo.


7 bolts, 2 BA

Photos of Unnamed Arête (a.k.a. UNA) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave crushing the crux of UNA.
Dave crushing the crux of UNA.

Comments on Unnamed Arête (a.k.a. UNA) Add Comment
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By Wa3lt
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is an Ed/Rich Strang route. I think they originally thought it was 13a!

Great route, perfect rock, good position. Classic.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 1, 2009

He he, only in NM! They must have graded the routes on the Beer Block.
By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 1, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Ed did put up The Thing and give it it's original 5.13c/d rating, the other routes, I don't know.

Though this did feel a bit harder than Trailer Park Girls.
By Grindrite
Sep 10, 2013

One of my favorite climbs in the Grotto. Always thought it was a solid 12b.
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I don't think we bolted this. Ed and I did it this weekend and don't remember it at all. It didn't have those sorta small "Lucky" hangers either which is usually a sure sign that one of us bolted something back in the 90s. Great route though. A must do in Diablo, really technical but not vey pumpy after the first move!

BTW until someone claims FA (maybe whoever bolted it didn't send it) I like calling it "UNA" - Un Named Arête

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