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 ADVANCED
Grotto End (R. Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Tenable 
Trailer Park Girls 
Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) 
Untenable 
Where the Wild Things Aren't 

Unnamed Arete (Left of Tweak Fuck) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ed/Rich Strang
Page Views: 1,719
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
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Description 

Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below the 4th bolt. Some more classic arete moves and a short dyno to a crimp out right lead up the arete. Around the 6th bolt traverse onto the left face via pockets and sharp crimps, up over a slight bulge and a horizontal crack just below the anchor.


Location 

Furthest S route on the W wall of the Grotto. #27 in the photo topo.


Protection 

7 bolts, 2 BA



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By Wa3lt
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

This is an Ed/Rich Strang route. I think they originally thought it was 13a!

Great route, perfect rock, good position. Classic.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 1, 2009

He he, only in NM! They must have graded the routes on the Beer Block.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 1, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Ed did put up The Thing and give it it's original 5.13c/d rating, the other routes, I don't know.

Though this did feel a bit harder than Trailer Park Girls.

By Grindrite
Sep 10, 2013

One of my favorite climbs in the Grotto. Always thought it was a solid 12b.