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Gray Face area
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Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack) T 
Left Side of Gray Face T 
Thin Crack Variation T 
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board T 

Unnamed aka The Ironing Board 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,598
Submitted By: Bryan Gall on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Good climb. Don't recommend for new leader onsight...

Description 

This route is located immediately to the left of the Jungle Book. It is a right-arching crack splitting the large gray practice slab. Start in the alcove in the center of the slab reaching up to the finger slots. After the crux move (the start is maybe a wee bit harder than 5.8), jam and lieback the ever-widening crack. Following the crack up and to the right on a ledge brings you the anchors of the Jungle Book. Two variations exist on the top. 1st variation: (5.10) Follow the right arching crack up until it is possible to move left with face moves into a small finger crack. A few sweet ring locks bring you to anchors on which you may top rope the slab. 2nd variation: (5.10) Top the crack out to the ledge with the Jungle Book anchors. Continue up an additional twenty feet in the sweet hand to fist crack; top out on the diving board, walk back ten feet, and rap off of black Metolius anchors.

The slab to the left of the climb is often top roped by the anchors of the first variation. There exists a number of good face moves on edges (5.9). The anchors may be reached by some fifth class scrambling around the corner to the left, near the start of the pink face.


Protection 

Standard granite rack.


Location 

Per Jeremy Joseph: it is located on the CMC Wall. It is the middle crack just to the left of the Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack).



Photos of Unnamed aka The Ironing Board Slideshow Add Photo
Unnamed from the base, ready to start the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Unnamed from the base, ready to start the climb.
Photo of East side climbs of No Name Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Photo of East side climbs of No Name Canyon.
Comments on Unnamed aka The Ironing Board Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jami S Mohlenkamp
From: Colorado
Sep 7, 2006

I am a novice/intermediate leader. The beginning was definitely the crux for me, and I didn't place as much pro as I should have. After finishing the crack, you top out on a small ledge where you traverse left around an arete to the anchors (I used the upper anchors, not the ones at my feet to limit rope drag over the edge; my second didn't follow me up). This arete traverse has some crazy exposure, and I protected it with a #2 cam at the right of the ledge prior to venturing left on the traverse.

By Spinalflow
From: Sugarhouse , Utah
Sep 14, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Watch out for rattlesnakes!

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 26, 2008

Last year someone added a bolted anchor to the top of the upper block, what Bryan has described here as the second variation. Now, you can do the "complete" climb and lower with a 70 meter rope.

By TylerVaughan
From: Glenwood Springs, Colorado
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think the top block goes at .9+ or .10- for a few spicy moves. Makes for one of the longer and better climbs in the canyon.

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super quality for sure! Lead it yesterday in my approach shoes. Ran out the middle section big time (it's mellow). The upper block is probly the best part of the whole route. 5.9 ought to be about right.

By Jay Austin
Aug 1, 2012

This is an awesome climb at what the guidebook says is 110 ft to the top which is what I like to do. 5.9 to the big block at the top with a crux at the start and probably a 5.10- move at the top. There are anchors and the very top of the climb now. Highly recommended.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 14, 2013

New glue-in anchor with stainless links and rings added last year courtesy of hardware from the ASCA.

By Mike Bannister
Sep 3, 2013

If you're a fan of gently overhanging handcracks, the top crack is not to be missed. Bummer it's not longer.