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It's hard for me to give a fifty foot route 3 stars, but this route deserves it-- a beautiful splitter in a perfect corner, it often appears in guidebooks and climbing magazine photos. Hands, then wide hands with a little arm jam for the last move to the anchors. It is located up and left from the parking pull-off. Look for a large right facing corner, leading to a sandy shelf with anchors about 50 feet up. The next corner to the left is "Dawn of an Age", a 5.10 3-5 inch corner crack which is easily toproped from the anchors.
bring a few 3 friends, a few more 3.5 friends, and maybe a 4 friend for the last move
BETA PHOTO: 5.9+ on the R, Dawn of an Age on the Left
Jeff Bevan leading the climb.
kevin fox, on unamed 5.9+ . at the blue gramma cl...
Mitch at the anchors. Good view of Dawn of an Age...
Grunting up The Mexican Unicorn, a hell of a warm ...
BETA PHOTO: The cute little plaque at the base of this snadbag...
A cool sequence
Matt on lead
Mexican Unicorn - 5.9+ Small #2, #3, a...
|By L. Hamilton|
Apr 9, 2002
This route is the back-cover photo (Martha Morris) on Stewart Green's _Rock Climbing Utah_. Picturesque and sustained.
|By Ben Mottinger|
Oct 7, 2002
Really fun and worth doing.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2002
A good or great rout, but a classic? Can you seriously compare this to Pente, Black Corner, Spaggetti Western, Primrose Dihedrals or Vision Quest?
|By Tom Painter|
Aug 6, 2003
Just a comment (as a research scientist in earth science) on Charles' description of this route as a "splitter" - Supercrack is a splitter, this route is a dihedral. Looks beautiful though!
|By brian benjamin weinstein|
Apr 11, 2004
Very high quality pitch. Short and sweet, and a great introduction to I-Creek.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 18, 2006
Can be done with two 3.0 friends, five 3.5 friends, and one 4.0 friend (or 2 gold #2, 5 blue #3, and 1 black #3.5 camalot), if you want to sew it up. Its only 50 feet, and the 3.0 won't fit after the first 15 feet.
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 14, 2006
A good warm-up for the other routes at the cliff. I would recommend several #3 (blue) camalots, and 1 larger (3.5 or 4) piece for the top.
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007
Excellent warmup. One of my favorites. Average-sized hands all the way. A small wide section at the top (4 friend).
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 23, 2008
Upon review, even placing a lot of pro, 4 #3 camalots, 2 #3.5 camalots and one optional (aka chicken) #4 camalot for the very top will almost over protect this route. Also, a plaque has appeared, dubbing this thing the "Mexican Unicorn", but is of dubious provenance. Still 5.9.
From: inside the Bubble, Colorado
Sep 2, 2008
I'm guessing it probably wasn't the first ascensionist who took the liberty of naming this route " Mexican Unicorn." If we're going to start naming all the best "unnamed" or "no name" routes in the Creek, then I hereby declare the 5.10 "No-Name Crack" on Supercrack Buttress will forever hence be known as "Hand-Job Love Fest." Mike Sanders came up with this very clever and appropriate name for the previously unnamed classic years ago, but we didn't have the courage to be so presumptuous or arrogant as to name it for the world since we didn't climb it first. Thank you, unnamed namer, for giving us the inspiration to change history for our own satisfaction.
Sep 3, 2008
i agree, the addition of plaques 25 years after the fact is completely Rob Halford (ie ghey).
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dec 12, 2008
good warm up.....4 blue camolots and approach shoes make this worthwile
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
May 28, 2009
Agreed, four blues is all you need.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
Brilliant, even if short. I only had 2 3.5 Friends so had to use a DMM No. 4 in the upper section which inevitably got stuck. Whoever gets it out is welcome to keep it - and it's nearly new! Hard to grade this route as you keep repeating the same straightforward move all the way up but this gets more than a bit tiring after a while - in UK terms E1 4c perhaps? It's like a much more sustained version of Flake Crack at Helsby.
Apr 28, 2012
The Bloom guidebook says this route has an 'offwidth second pitch'. This second pitch seems to be only about 20ft, up to a ledge with another set of anchors, and a couple of #6 Camalots will protect it.
THere is also a long (about 70m from the station atop p1) chimney above that pitch. Be careful of loose rock on the ledge atop p2, and head deep into the chimney, then aim for daylight. There are options for gear placements from tcu's to 4 inches on the chimney's right-hand wall, and there is an offwidth on the left that will take plenty of gear up to about twelve inches. The rock is of questionalbe quality throughout the pitch and you'd want two ropes to get off the top.