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North Face
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Alice in Wonderland S 
All The Kings Horses S 
Chuck If You Want S 
Consolation Prize S 
Final Decade, The S 
Hustler's Roof S 
New Decade, The S 
Poser's Lonely Reunion S 
Rooster Booster S 
Unnamed 6b+ l. of Chuck If You Want S 

Unnamed 6b+ l. of Chuck If You Want 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Erik, Jen & Kalle Viira, 11/2005 (from guide book)
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Nov 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Though unnamed, this route is too good not to include. Just left of the obvious cave (and the route Chuck If You Want), this climbs the less-than-vertical nice, white stone.

Another great route on The Egg that climbs great from bottom to top, it has 3 separate and roughly equal in difficulty cruxes. Technical and uber-fun, this is one of the best on the North Face.


Location 

Find the North Face of The Egg. Starts about 5m left of the big obvious cave. Its not the route that hugs the left side of the cave, through the overhang -- that's Chuck If You Want (also great). This is the next route left.


Protection 

Bolts a two bolt anchor.



Comments on Unnamed 6b+ l. of Chuck If You Want Add Comment
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By mattjohnson
From: Laurens, SC
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is (aptly) named "Hanging in the Balance" according to the Yangshuo Rock Climbs guidebook. It is high quality and very sustained from the middle to the last bolt. Having a long wingspan is definitely benificial.