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Start by climbing the steep crack system until you're just below the large roof. Follow the thin holds out and left aiming for the left corner of the roof (crux). Pull up left into a small corner and then head up and right using good holds to reach a stance above the large roof. From here, the climbing eases up, but you still have another 30 feet or so of climbing to reach the anchors.
To locate this route from the approach trail. First locate Meathead, 5.11c or Starry, 5.12b, they are right at the point where the trail meets the cliff. Walk right along the cliff until you come to a broken crack system that leads to a roof (approximately 25 yards). This route follows the line of bolts next to the crack.
9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
By Sam Stephens
Sep 30, 2013
Fun, engaging, and with you too the end. Good route, very solid 11c.