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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 
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Unnamed 5.10 - just after turning the corner T 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roog T 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T,S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The route

Description 

This route has two starts, the left one is a sweet fingers to off fingers splitter which is what we did. The right one we didn't do but it looked like it starts out as .4 Camalots in a corner and then gets bigger.

Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality. The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing. It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though. Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge. Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.

Location 

Far right side of 4X4, just left of Scout.

Protection 

2 each .3 & .4 Camalot, 3 each .5 to #2 Camalot. The anchor could use some chains or at least some new webbing.


Comments on Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Apr 13, 2012

great route. right hand start is .3 to .5 and maybe a couple .75 camalots with good climbing. the upper section is beautiful tight hands with sharp, crisp rock. i think bloom's book calls it a 100', which is a dangerous mistake as you are rapping off the very end of the rope with a 70.

great addition steven!
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 3, 2014

Sweet route! Did the left start which would be an awesome route all on it's own. You might want to save a .75 for the top.