This route has two starts, the left one is a sweet fingers to off fingers splitter which is what we did. The right one we didn't do but it looked like it starts out as .4 Camalots in a corner and then gets bigger.
Both cracks start by gently climbing up some flaky rock that is easy to climb but poor in quality. The left crack starts with .3 fingers to a stance on a sketchy looking flake/tooth thing. It looks like it should fall out but it was solid enough to stand on, I wouldn't recommend pulling on it or standing on the far left end of it though. Continue up .5 and .75 fingers with nice pods for your toes until you get to a small ledge. Step right on the ledge to the corner and cruise up hands and thin hands to the anchor.
Far right side of 4X4, just left of Scout.
2 each .3 & .4 Camalot, 3 each .5 to #2 Camalot. The anchor could use some chains or at least some new webbing.
|Comments on Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start
Apr 13, 2012
great route. right hand start is .3 to .5 and maybe a couple .75 camalots with good climbing. the upper section is beautiful tight hands with sharp, crisp rock. i think bloom's book calls it a 100', which is a dangerous mistake as you are rapping off the very end of the rope with a 70.
great addition steven!