Unnamed 5.10 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Oct 2, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base. "Railroad Tracks" is ju...
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Description Decent warm-up route that that is probably easier than the 5.10 rating assigned to it. The start is loose-fingers or tight-hands and quickly goes to good hands. There are also face features to make it easier. After the hands section the crack pinches down and then finish to the anchors in another loose-fingers or tight-hands crack. Pretty fun, but not up to typical IC standards.
Location Route starts on the right side of the buttress. It is one to the right of Railroad Tracks and a little before Three Strikes You're Out.
Protection Camalots from green to gold should be sufficient.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Dec 10, 2006
| I found two brand new quick draws at that anchors on this route. Describe them, and you can have them back.
Sam |
By climberz
Sep 19, 2007
| One of the anchor bolts was hanging partway out of the hole spring 07'. This climb sucks anyway. Watched a girl almost deck from the top of this pile. She was placing a piece in the upper crack when she fell, bounced off the ledge and sailed head-first toward the ground to be stopped 5' above the ground and slammed face-first into the corner. The piece that caught her was a green camalot. It broke out a couple of inches of rock and had only two lobes left in the crack. Yikes! |
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 23, 2008
| Rating is closer to 5.8 than 5.10. Barely mediocre climbing considering the classic routes that abound on this cliff. |
By logan johnson
From: West Copper, Co
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.9
| Does anyone know if there is a second OW pitch that goes to the top of the large pillar? |
By Average Jim
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Climbed this rout yesterday, fun/nothing spectacular, however it gives you a good angle to take photos of folks climbing Railroad Tracks. |
By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
Apr 26, 2011
| I have always called this Guides Crack. I don't know where I heard it but since it doesn't have a name... ? Well, just a thought at least. |
By Thomas R. Aguilera
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 22, 2013
rating: 5.8+
| Not sure I encountered one 5.10 move on this climb, definitely closer to 5.8 |
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