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(04) Showdown Wall
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Finger Flake 
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Unnamed 2 
Velcro Bootie 

Unnamed 2 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Carolyn Parker & John Kear, 2004. Left line: Bryan Pletta before 2004
Page Views: 661
Submitted By: Bryan T on Sep 20, 2009
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Description 

Fun combo of face climbing, pressure moves and a few finger locks. Pro is good with plenty of options for cams and nuts. Majority of the climbing is 5.7ish sans the crux which is the last move to the chains.


Location 

About 30' left of the 5.7 unnamed gear crack at the left of Showdown wall. There is a head high detached flake at the base.


Protection 

Small stuff. Camalot's .75 and lower. Used a 0 and 1 TCU. Set of nuts. 6-8 quickdraws. 60cm slings optional. 2 Bolts with chains at the top.



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By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Carolyn Parker and I cleaned this line but the anchor was already there. The original line climbs a little left of the easy corner and is a bit harder. The FA of the left line was by Brian Paletta before 2004, Carolyn and I clean the easier right line in 04'

By Bryan T
Mar 3, 2011

Yea I have no rating skills, I had a hard time finding something at the end where I felt the crux was, but I tend to miss holds (Im the best 5.11 5.9 climber). The two people after me, who were somewhat novice, cruised the top.