Unnamed 11  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Tony B on Apr 2, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This climb is a left-facing flake several meters left of the classic climb Blue Gramma. It climbs up and right to reach that same anchor.
Mentally, climbing up and over right to the fixed pin is taxing. Soft rock 5.10- on so-so spaced gear. CLip the pin and power up on slightly dusty rock (don't slip) to reach good cupped hands and a few fists in the long crack above.

Location 

This is the flake and crack system left of Blue Gramma, climbing to the same anchor. Refer to the route description on that page.

Protection 

A few cams from .75" to 1.5" to start, a quickdraw for a fixed pin at the crux and perhaps a large cam to back it up (#4 camalot") and handful of 2.5-3.5" (heavy on the BD #2 and #3 camalots) for the top half, where the climbing is not hard, but you are pumped.
A TR is possible from Blue Gramma with a 3" cam for a directional somewhere left of the top- otherwise a fall at the crux might be exciting.