Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,457 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This climb is a left-facing flake several meters left of the classic climb Blue Gramma. It climbs up and right to reach that same anchor.
Mentally, climbing up and over right to the fixed pin is taxing. Soft rock 5.10- on so-so spaced gear. CLip the pin and power up on slightly dusty rock (don't slip) to reach good cupped hands and a few fists in the long crack above.

Location Suggest change

This is the flake and crack system left of Blue Gramma, climbing to the same anchor. Refer to the route description on that page.

Protection Suggest change

A few cams from .75" to 1.5" to start, a quickdraw for a fixed pin at the crux and perhaps a large cam to back it up (#4 camalot") and handful of 2.5-3.5" (heavy on the BD #2 and #3 camalots) for the top half, where the climbing is not hard, but you are pumped.
A TR is possible from Blue Gramma with a 3" cam for a directional somewhere left of the top- otherwise a fall at the crux might be exciting.

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